See http://www.nps.gov/glac/ for
Glacier's official site.
Note that all the trails are well defined and there are distance to go
markers at the start and at each trail junction (some with both miles
and kilometers, some with just one or the other).
Note that the Going-to-the-Sun Road is closed in the winter (generally
open mid-May to mid-September) and vehicles longer than 21 feet and/or
wider than 8 feet are prohibited on a large section of the road. There
is also likely to be one or two sections of the road under road construction
with a stop light (only one-lane available for traffic) and up to a 15
minute delay for each light.
The west side of the park receives more visitors, but (in my opinion) the
east is the prettier area and has more trails; so if you can, try to stay
on the east side of the park [and FYI, Kalispell is a long drive from the
east side of the park]. I stayed in Rising Sun the whole time. The in-park
hotels and campsites do fill up during the summer, so make your
reservations as far in advances as you can.
Also note that Waterton Lakes National Park (Canada) is about an hour
drive north of St. Mary's and has some pretty hikes as well (you will need
your passport to cross the boarder).
Montana Pictures (48 pictures)
Snyder Lake (Lake McDonald)
Directions:
On the west side of the park, Going-to-the-Sun Road to the
signed Lake McDonald Lodge turn (there are other turns in to
the Lake McDonald area, but you want the signed one for the
lodge). Park near the top of the parking lot, near the
Going-to-the-Sun road. The trail starts across the
Going-to-the-Sun road.
No facilities near trailhead (but can walk parking lot down
to lodge).
$20 per week per car or National Parks Pass
Trails:
The wide trail goes past the horse corral and starts heading
up. And it's up, up, up for the next 2 miles through the
trees. It's not that pretty (only a couple of spots where you
get views of Lake McDonald) and you have the extra fun of
avoiding horse droppings - the trail is used daily to supply
Sperry Chalet. The trail heads a slight down past the signed
Mt. Brown junction and the Snyder Lake junction is just ahead
on the left, 1.8 miles from the road. The trail narrows to
one-person width (and loses the horse odors) and heads a
milder up from the junction. As the trail gets further away
from the junction, there are several times that the
undergrowth overhangs the trail and will brush against your
legs (and closer to the lake, the undergrowth is pretty tall).
There is one long level spot along the way and it is a harder
up near the lake (if you get tired - take a break as the lake
is further ahead than you'll think). The trail stays near,
but above, Snyder Creek the entire way. The shallow lake is
tree surrounded with smaller peaks high above. It's hard to
find a nice resting spot. If you look at a map, you'll see
that there is another lake above this one. Unfortunately,
when you reach the lake, you'll see that there is no way to
get to the 2nd lake as there is a rock cliff between the two
(and you don't even get to see a waterfall between the two).
It took me 2:10 to reach the lake. I didn't stay very long
as I was disappointed in it not being that pretty of a lake.
Trail Length + Elevation:
4.4 miles, 2147 feet one-way
Area:
Mountains, mountain lake
Picture
When I did the hike:
Friday, July 31, 2009
Recommendation:
Nope. Many better hikes and prettier destinations in Glacier.
This is my second least favorite hike that I've done in
Glacier (though no where near as blah as Pioa Lake).
Avalanche Lake (Lake McDonald)
Directions:
Going-to-the-Sun Road to the Avalanche Lake campground turn off.
Turn into the campground area and there is a parking area a
short ways ahead. There are bathrooms a short ways ahead on
the Trail of the Cedars, just before the Avalanche Lake branch.
Smelly outhouses just before the lake.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
The hike to Avalanche Lake starts on the paved Trail of the
Cedars loop (.4 mile loop). At the top of the loop is the
junction for the Avalanche Lake trail (there is a small sign).
The Avalanche Lake trail is a wide (2 to 3 person width),
packed dirt (with some gravel spots) trail that goes for 2
miles up to the lake, often along a creek that comes down from
the lake. It is probably also one of the two most heavily used
trails in the park - don't expect solitude. The trail starts
with a climb for a short ways and then has small ups and downs
for about a mile. When you reach a good climb followed by a
long descent, that is the end of the ups and downs and the rest
is up until near the lake. It's not a steep climb, but it
seems to go on forever. Once you reach the lake, enjoy the
views. Walk some to the right of the lake to find a spot to
relax and enjoy the scenery with fewer people (most stay near
the tail of the lake). The good sized pretty mountain lake
is in a large granite bowl with a couple of waterfalls coming
down the mountains.
Trail Length + Elevation:
2 miles, +500 feet one-way
Area:
Forest, mountain lake, waterfalls, mountains
Picture
When I did the hike:
Tuesday, August 10, 2004; Saturday, July 19, 2008
Recommendation:
It is a very pretty lake, despite all the people. But as
pretty as it is, it's pretty far down on my "to do" list
for the park, as seen by the fact that I didn't re-visit
the lake for 4 years.
Hidden Lake (Logan Pass)
Directions:
Going-to-the-Sun Road to the Logan Pass parking lot.
Flush toilets at the visitor center.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
From the Logans Pass parking lot, the trail heads up above the
visitor center. It is paved for a very short ways and then a
wide boardwalk for a very long ways, with steps along the way
(and a couple of short rocky areas). Note that the trail is
open (no tree cover) until near the lake. Clements Mountain
is the pyramind peak straight ahead and Reynolds Mountain is
the mountain to the left. You start heading up immediately
and continue up until you reach the small pond. That's the
end of the up and the overlook is a short ways ahead. Along
the way, you may see a herd of bighorn sheep in the fields
(and they pay no mind to the people). As you get closer to
the rocky slopes, keep an eye out for mountain goats. There
are often mountain goats and kids in the overlook area. The
boardwalk ends around the small falls and it is a dirt, rocky
trail the rest of the way (except for the observation area).
Often there are wonderful reflection views on the small pond
(and a good place to pause or stop and catch your breath).
It is a mild trail and not too much farther from the pond to
the boardwalk overlook observation area. It's 1.5 miles from
the start to the observation area. From the observation area,
you get a wonderful view down on the very large L-shaped
Hidden Lake. Bearhat Mountain is the peak straight ahead
across the lake. You can see Sperry Glacier to the left upper
end of the lake and high above. If you aren't going down to
the lake, continue a little bit past the overlook area for
better views and fewer people. The trail narrows and is dirt
past the observation area and the crowds stay behind as it
heads down, with a couple of switchbacks, for 1.5 miles to the
lake. Keep in mind that it is a one-way trail, so you have to
go back up what you are coming down. The trail ends at the
tail of the lake. To the left, you can wander a ways. To the
right, you can wander a ways to near the top of Hidden Lake
Falls (no view of the falls, though). There looks to be a
trail on the other side of the creek (wet water crossing)
where the lake ends, but there is no defined trail that goes
around the lake. Find a nice spot to relax and maybe eat
breakfast (as I did) or lunch. It is a workout from the lake
back to the observation area. From Logans Pass to the
observation area is probably one of the two most used trails
in the park. If you go around sunrise, you can avoid the
crowds. I had the trail almost to myself with a hike that
started around 7 am, but there were a ton of people when I
later went back and did a late afternoon hike.
Trail Length + Elevation:
Total: 6 miles, 960 feet
1.5 miles, +460 feet to observation area (one-way)
1.5 miles, about -500 feet from observation area to lake (one-way)
Area:
Mountains, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, large mountain
lake, wonderful views
Pictures
When I did the hike:
Thursday, 8/5/04 (lake); Wednesday, 8/11/04 (overlook);
Wednesday, 7/27/05 (overlook); Monday, 7/11/06 (overlook);
Saturday, 8/25/07 (overlook); 7/11+7/12/08 (overlook);
7/30+7/31/09 (overlook); Friday, 8/19/11 (morning and
afternoon) (overlook)
Recommendation:
A must, at least to the observation area (the lake is pretty
too, but some may rather not put out the effort) - and go a
little bit past the observation area (before the down) for
more views. There is a reason it is so popular. The views
for each step are wonderful and you'll likely see some wild
life.
Gunsight Lake (Logan Pass)
Directions:
Going-to-the-Sun Road to the Gunsight Lake road-side parking
area (near Jackson Glacier Overlook area and on the west side
of Logan Pass) - the trailhead is at the east end of the
parking area. This is also a shuttle stop.
No facilities at the parking area - there is a chemical
toilet a short ways west on the road. Outhouse in campground
area (to the right of the food prepartion area).
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
[Note: for some strange reason, all the trail signs along
this hike list just kilometers - no miles.] This one-person
width dirt trail starts with a mile descent into the valley
[which is annoying on the return leg]. Near the bottom, hook
a right to river-side for a pretty spot where the water rushes
through red rock. Just ahead on the trail is a junction, take
a right and just ahead is a bridge over the river. The trail
is mild for a good ways in being fairly level with some ups
and downs along the way, but no major climbs. The trail is
in the trees most of the way. Unfortunately, most of the
trees in the area are now dead and it is not as pretty as it
once was. After about 4 miles, you will reach the junction
for Florence Falls - skip them. It's about half a mile and
150 feet gained from the junction to the falls, then back.
The falls trail is well overgrown - sometimes I couldn't see
the ground through the brush. After giving up on my attempt
to go to the falls in 2004 (the trail was just too overgrown),
I finally went to the falls in 2011. It is pretty as it is
a wide, spread falls, but not stunning. Only try for a falls
visit on the return from the lake where you'll know if you
want to make the extra effort for the falls. Back on the
Gunsight Lake trail, a short ways past the junction the trail
goes over a bridge (and it is a nice resting spot). When you
reach an open grassy area, the easy part is over and the trail
starts its climb - over the next 30 minutes or so of heading
up. Get out your camera and start taking pictures of the top
of the valley and Jackson and Blackfoot glaciers as the views
are just wonderful. The trail rounds the mountain as it heads
up. The lake is in a bowl with the mountain the trail goes
along as one of its sides (so, no, you are not heading towards
the snowy mountain peaks you see across the way). Once you
finally finish the climb, you still have a bit to go. The
trail levels out and there (used to be) an open area, then a
tree area, and then another open area before finally reaching
the campground area (and getting your first glimpse of the
lake). In 2011 I had a big surprise of the trail deadending
at an ice-tree wall - they had a big avalanche go through the
area (a very, very snowy year) at some point. I was able to
make my way over the ice and branches (as others also had) and
eventually reach the lake. I'm sure that the park service will
clear a trail at some point in 2012 (they had so many problems
in 2011 that Gunsight was not a priority) and the way will be
easier. But the avalanche did have a bonus as you can actually
spot the lake a little earlier (the campground was not affected
by the avalanche). One access point to the lake (it is
surrounded by trees on this side of the lake) is following the
trail as it curves left and then take a short right where there
is a big rock to a short stretch of open shore. It is a
beautiful, peaceful nice sized lake in a mountain bowl with a
couple of waterfalls and a small glacier above, and the right
side mountain wall being red and white ribboned. Ahhh. If you
have any extra energy, head up towards Gunsight Pass (crossing
the swing bridge over the lake outlet and then taking a right),
it's just simply magnificent. You don't have to go all the way
to the pass (though that too is nice). Every time I've planned
to try the Jackson Glacier Meadows option (taking a left past
the bridge, 2 miles), I reach the lake and decide that the pass
is just too pretty to skip.
For my 2007 trip, on the return I elected to hike 3 miles of
Sun Point Trail instead of the usual 1 mile last up - the new
park shuttle gave me this option. It was a blah hike that only
once went next to the river and the rest was through the trees.
It doesn't go next to St Mary's Falls (.6 miles one-way). It
does go next to the uneventful Baring Falls and there were
some nice lake views near the end (but you can see those by
simply visiting Sun Point). Recommendation: simply hike the
1 mile back out and skip Sun Point Trail.
Trail Length + Elevation:
6.2 miles, +500 feet to lake (one-way), add about 1.2 miles and
150 feet (gained then lossed) if you take the side trip to
Florence Falls
3 miles, +1600 feet from Gunsight Lake to Gunsight Pass
Area:
Mountains, mountain lake, glacier views, waterfalls
Picture
When I did the hike:
Wednesday, 8/11/04; Sunday+Monday, 7/24+7/25/05 (Sperry
Chalet); Tuesday, 9/12/06 (lake and pass); Sunday, 8/26/07
(lake and half way up pass); Saturday, 7/12/08 (lake and
half way up pass); Saturday, 7/25/09; Saturday, 8/1/09
(Gunsight-Sperry half loop); Thursday, 8/18/11 (lake and
falls)
Recommendation:
My favorite place in the park. It's a beautiful lake with
great views of glaciers along the hike. As a bonus, it is
not heavily used due to the distance (even though it is a
milder hike than some of the shorter distance trails that
reach a mountain lake). I also recommend heading up to the
pass (or part way if you don't have energy/time/... to go the
extra 3 miles, 1600 feet) for magnificent views. There is
also a 2 mile trail from the lake to a view point for Jackson
Glacier (haven't done it - planned on it in my 2008 visit,
but going up the pass was just to enticing; made an extra
trip to Gunsight in 2009 so I could do the meadow, but got
overheated and stopped at the lake).
Note: the way through the trees is not as pretty as it once
was as a lot of them were killed in 2007 from too much water.
Gunsight Lake to Sperry Chalet (Logan Pass)
Directions:
Going-to-the-Sun Road to the Gunsight Lake road-side parking
area (near Jackson Glacier Overlook area and on the west side
of Logan Pass) - the trailhead is at the east end of the
parking area.
For Gunsight-Sperry half loop: On the west side of the park,
take the Going-to-the-Sun Road to the signed Lake McDonald
Lodge turn (there are other turns in to the Lake McDonald
area, but you want the signed one for the lodge). Park near
the top of the parking lot, near the Going-to-the-Sun road.
The trail from Sperry comes out across the Going-to-the-Sun
road. Walk down the parking lot and take the road to the
right to the shuttle pickup spot, across from the store.
Take the free park shuttle to Logans Pass. Catch the east
side shuttle at Logans Pass and get off at the Jackson
Glacier Overlook/Gunsight Pass stop (2nd stop). Note that
the west side shuttles fill and you may have to wait for a
bus or two (they only seat 12 people) [and, yes, it's very
annoying when you are trying to do this as a long day hike]
(if you have 2 cars, skip the shuttle and park one at Lake
McDonald and take the other to Gunsight Lake trailhead).
No facilities at the Gunsight Lake trailhead parking area -
there is a chemical toilet a short ways east on the road.
Outhouses in the campgrounds at the lakes. Vault toilets
at chalet.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
The outing that brought me back to Glacier. See the above
writeup for the hike to Gunsight Lake. After resting at the
lake, the trail continues from near the shore and crosses the
creek with a suspension bridge and then heads right and starts
going up. And up, and up, and up. You'll want to take a
number of rests along the way to catch your breath and enjoy
the spectacular views. I can't even begin to describe how
amazing the views are heading up to the pass - worth doing
even if you are doing just a there-and-back (in other words,
don't simply stop at Gunsight Lake). At the pass is an old
shelter cabin (without a roof). Take a longer rest at the
pass and enjoy the many views. Next comes the down, down,
down to Lake Ellen Wilson. After the last switchback down,
there is a wet water crossing in front of a small waterfall.
The trail does stay well above Lake Ellen Wilson the entire
way around the lake - you have to take a .5 mile sidetrip
down to the campground if you want to get lakeside. The
good news is all the pretty views of and around Lake Ellen
Wilson. The bad news is that there is yet another climb
ahead. The trail goes up from Lake Ellen Wilson, rounds the
bend and continues up and eventually reaches Lincoln Pass.
By this time, you are likely very, very tired. The rest is
down hill, but it is still over a mile to Sperry Chalet.
The chalet is very nice ($155 in 2005) with beds and full
meals [but no showers]. There is food, running water, and
toilets at the chalet (even for those who don't stay). From
the chalet, there is a trail that heads 3.5 miles and over
1600 feet gained to Sperry Glacier (haven't done). For the
return trip, you can either go back the way you came (which
I did as I was so enamored with Gunsight Pass and Gunsight
Lake) or take the 6.4 miles, 3432 drop to Lake McDonald.
[Most Sperry Chalet guests come up from Lake McDonald].
In 2009 I took the shuttle to the Gunsight trailhead and did
the Gunsight-Sperry half loop long day hike. It is a very long
hike that you have to be in very good hiking shape to consider.
But going by Gunsight Lake, Gunsight Pass, and Lake Ellen
Wilson is absolutely worth the exhaustion. All that is
described above. From Sperry Chalet, the trail widens (horse
trail) and heads to the left from the chalet. Ahead is the
signed junction for the Sperry Glacier trail - continue
straight. The trail rounds the mountainside and starts
heading down the valley - it starts out of the trees and there
some views of Sperry Chalet above and Lake McDonald below
(nothing really pretty). Further on are some switchbacks down
and then the trail enters the trees. There is no up to the
trail until just past the bridge over Snyder Creek, and then
it's only a short up past the two trail junctions (Snyder Lake
and Mt. Brown). And the last 2 miles are pure down, in the
trees with very few views of Lake McDonald. I started the
hike at 9:30 am and finally reached the road (and my car) at
8:30 pm [long stops at Gunsight Lake and Pass, shorter above
Lake Ellen Wilson (not enought time or energy for sidetrip
lakeside) and at the chalet; quick down last 6 miles).
Trail Length + Elevation:
Gunsight-Sperry Chalet total: 13.6 miles, 3100 feet gained
6.2 miles, +500 feet to Gunsight Lake
3 miles, +1600 feet from Gunsight Lake to Gunsight Pass
1.7 miles, -900 feet from Gunsight Pass to Lake Ellen Wilson
1.7 miles, +1000 feet from Lake Ellen Wilson to Lincoln Pass
1 mile, -450 feet down from Lincoln Pass to Sperry Chalet
6.4 miles, -3432 feet Sperry to road
Gunsight-Sperry half loop total: 20 miles
Area:
Mountains, mountain lake, glacier views, waterfalls
When I did the hike:
Sunday+Monday, July 24+25, 2005 (stayed at Chalet);
Saturday, August 1, 2009 (half-loop day hike)
Recommendation:
Simply wonderful. It is a really long hike, but well worth
all the effort. Reservations are needed for Sperry Chalet.
See http://www.sperrychalet.com/ for reservation information.
For the half loop, a multi-day hike is really the better
way to do this. But if it's the only way you can do this
hike, then it's well worth the effort - Gunsight Lake and
Gunsight Pass are my favorites and Lake Ellen Wilson is
absolutely beautiful.
Piegan Pass (Going-to-Sun Road to Many Glacier)
Directions:
Either use 2 cars and drive one to Siyeh Bend on Going-to-the-Sun
road or catch the morning hikers shuttle (fee) from the
Swiftcurrent Motel or Many Glacier Lodge to St Marys Visitor Center
and then take the free park shuttle along Going-to-the-Sun road to
the Siyeh Bend stop along the road. The Siyeh Bend stop is on the
east side of Logans Pass.
Or for a there-and-back to Piegan Pass, take the free
Going-to-the-Sun shuttle to the Siyeh Bend stop (no parking).
No facilities.
$20 per week per car or National Parks Pass
Trails:
With all the snow in the area when I went (abnormal amount of snow,
including 3 feet in June), I had tossed this hike aside, but after
3 different rangers said it was doable, it was back on the list
[just goes to show that "doable" doesn't mean it should be done].
After taking the shuttles to Siyeh Bend, I started my full day
hike. The first 3 miles are the same as the hike to Siyeh Pass.
The trail heads along a stream for a short bit and then turns
right into the trees - and it's in the trees for the next 3 miles,
mostly at a mild up (no hard climbs). At the Siyeh Pass junction,
continue straight and the trail is soon above the tree line. From
there it is just a mile through the talus slope to the pass - and
it's a surprisingly mild up with no switchbacks. Along the way
there are great views to the south of the valley across the road
and Jackson Glacier in the far distance. No views to the south
at the pass itself, but the views to the north are grand. Find a
comfty rock (and hopefully it is not as windy as it was when I
was there) and enjoy the views and you'll likely see marmots
running around (keep an eye on your stuff as they'll snatch
anything unguarded). The view of the east side of the Garden
Wall and the valley ahead is wonderful, even though there are no
mountain lakes. The way also looked snow free, so I headed on
down. The trail heads sharply down with lots of switchbacks and
stays above the tree line for about 2 miles (and it was really
windy for my hike). Along the way was a small pretty falls where
I took a rest. There are a couple of creek crossings (rock
hopping) along the way. The trail heads into the trees and this
is where I had big troubles as there were 4 large snow patches
along the way and I was way past the no-turning-around point.
I lost the trail with the first snow patch (guessing it was a
switchback area) and started heading down through the trees -
I could see the creek below and knew the trail would eventual go
along that creek. I was quite thrilled when I came across the
trail again. Along the way there are some impressive views from
above and to the side of the large Morning Eagle Falls. I came
to a 2nd large patch of snow and the way was straight through
it - really nasty as I had to make my own bootprints and it was
at a slope, my hands were shaking for 15 minutes after I
thankfully made it safely through. The 3rd patch covered what
looked to be a large switchback open area, but it had melted
some and I was able to make my way down on the dirt beside it.
The 4th was right before the waterfall and the trail was mild
there. So lots of fun getting to the waterfall - for those who
go when there isn't snow, it's a large, long down as the trail
makes its way through the trees to the base of the waterfall.
The base of the waterfall is a beautiful spot and I rested there
for a while. From there the trail heads a mild down alongside
the creek. I had another nasty surprise as I reached the first
creek crossing - there was snow lining the banks. I found a spot
where the snow was light and made the icy cold wet water crossing
(the summer bridges weren't up). After getting feeling back in
my feet, I continued on and reached the 2nd crossing (again no
bridge up yet). Just past the 2nd crossing is a junction - to
the right heads directly to Many Glacier Lodge in 4.1 miles, to
the left is Grinnell Lake in 1.2 miles. Grinnell Lake is always
worth a visit, so I headed left. The mild, narrow trail heads
through the trees and meadows. I was happy to find that the
swing bridge for the 3rd creek crossing was up. The trail heads
more of a down, but is still mild. As the trail heads a harder
down, you get the first glimpse of the lake. There are
switchbacks on the way down. At the junction, take a left and
you are at the lake with the stunning views of the Grinnell
Valley. From the lake it is 3.7 mild miles to Many Glacier Lodge
or the Grinnell Glacier trailhead. If you are hiking the last 3
miles (not cutting off those miles with the water shuttle (fee)),
I recommend taking the left/west trail along Lake Josephine as
the right/east trail is an ugly horse trail with no views.
Note: you can do a milder hike by going to Piegan Pass from
Going-to-the-Sun road and back. [Going to Piegan Pass from Many
Glacier Lodge is a really hard hike.]
You can do an even milder hike from Many Glacier Lodge to Morning
Eagle Falls (there is one good up just past Grinnell Lake and the
rest is mild to the falls) - good for a family outing. You can
cut 3 miles off the hike by using the water shuttles (fee) for
Lake Josephine and Swiftcurrent Lake.
Trail Length + Elevation:
12.8 miles, 1750 ft up, 2640 ft down road to Many Glacier
4.5 miles, 1750 ft Going-to-the-Sun road to Piegan Pass
8.3 miles, 2640 ft Many Glacier Lodge to Piegan Pass
about 5 miles Many Glacier Lodge to Morning Eagle Falls.
Area:
Rocky Mountains, beautiful valley views, impressive wafterfall.
Picture
When I did the hike:
Monday, July 14, 2008; Friday, August 19, 2011
Recommendation:
If there is no/little snow and the summer bridges are up, a
worthy and beautiful hike.
In 2011, I did a there-and-back to Piegan Pass and decided
that the there-and-back hike is one that I'll recommend to
others (the not as serious hikers). It's not a hard hike
as there are no huff-and-puff climbs and the views at Piegan
Pass are wonderful.
Siyeh Pass (Logan Pass)
Directions:
In Glacier, Going-to-the-Sun Road to the Piegan Pass/Siyeh Bend
stop.
No facilities.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
The trail starts next to a creek for a very short bit and then
heads through the trees at a mild up for 2.7 miles to the
Piegan Pass junction - take a right at the junction. Once you
cross the bridge shortly before the junction, the trail is
surprisingly mild for a ways. Then comes the fun part as the
trail starts heading up, up, up to the pass. The pass is not
the ridge straight ahead that you think it is, but a lot higher
up. And the hike up to the pass and down on the other side is
open - almost no trees until the last couple of miles. For my
hike, it was really, really, really windy (don't recommend doing
the hike on such a windy day). On the way up to the pass, there
are great views back of Pollock Mountain as well as a small snow
melt lake at the foot of Mt. Siyeh as the trail switchbacks up,
up, up. Once getting above the false pass, you get great views
down an unnamed valley (not labeled on any of my maps), with
some small lakes, all the way out to the plains. On the other
side of the real pass, the trail switchbacks down (annoyingly so
as some of the switchbacks are too gentle) and you get grand
views of the Sunrift valley including Matahpi Mountain and its
glaciers and several tall waterfalls coming off them. Skip the
sidetrip to the right to a glacier view point - the "trail" soon
ends and you have to make your way through the rocks and
boulders to even get somewhat close to the glacier, and even
then the view from the pass trail is better. Once you pass
through the tree area (to the left, down, and ahead), the trail
continues through a long meadow at only a slight down for a good
ways before finally starting to head down again - the down
starts with a long switchback and then several shorter ones.
The trail reaches the creek (well before the many falls at the
top of the valley - no trail to those large falls). It is a
pretty area with small falls going through the red rock. Make
your way creek-side and find a nice resting spot to feet-soak
and relax - there is still a ways to go. The trail follows
along side (above) the creek for a little while. There is an
annoying up and then the trail heads into the trees and it is
blah the rest of the way. The trail ends at Sunrift Gorge on
Going-to-the-Sun Road. Take the free park shuttle back to
your starting point.
Trail Length + Elevation:
10.6 miles, 1900 feet
Area:
Mountains, mountain pass, valley views
Pictures
When I did the hike:
Saturday, August 25, 2007
Recommendation:
It is a longer hike, but a very pretty hike. If you are in
Glacier for a long visit, sure (but I'd put at least 5 other
trails in the park higher on my to-do list).
St Mary Falls and Virginia Falls (Rising Sun)
Directions:
Going-to-the-Sun Road to the St Mary Falls road-side parking area
(on the east side of Logan Pass). No facilities at the parking
area or on the trail.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
Most of the 200 feet down comes early for the short hike to St
Mary Falls. It is a wide dirt trail - about 1 1/2 to 2 person
width. The falls are not that impressive - not very tall, but
a large amount of water coming down. After the bridge over
the river, the trail narrows some and starts heading up to
Virginia Falls. There are a couple of small falls and cascades
in the creek along the trail, but you will know when you reach
Virginia Falls. At the trail junction, continue heading up
about .2 miles to the base of this wonderful large dropping
falls - it is worth the effort. Back at the trail junction,
you can take a short side trip over the bridge for another view
of the falls from a little further away. Virginia Falls can be
seen from the Going-to-the-Sun road in the distance across the
lake (if you are looking for them).
Trail Length + Elevation:
.8 miles, -200 feet to St Mary Falls (one-way)
.7 miles, +200 feet from St Mary Falls to Virginia Falls (one-way)
Area:
Woods to falls
Picture
When I did the hike:
Saturday, August 7, 2004
Recommendation:
If you have time to spare, Virginia Falls is very nice.
Otokomi Lake (Rising Sun)
Directions:
Going-to-the-Sun Road to Rising Sun. The signed trailhead
is to the left of the motel/store building. Restrooms at
the store, outhouse at the campground for the lake.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
The trail starts with an up and continues up most of the way
(there are 2 good sized downs along the way) heading up the
valley through the trees. Midway through the hike, the trail
goes near the creek and you can find some nice resting spots
there. At the top of the valley is a side valley to the left
and the lake is in a bowl at the end of that short valley.
The trail rounds the top of the valley and soon is out of the
trees as it goes through a long talus slope (no shade). The
trail then drops down to the campground and it's a short ways
ahead to the lake alongside the creek. There are very few
resting spots along the lake from the trail, but you can
cross the creek (on branches or wet water) and have better
views and resting spots on the left side of the lake. For
my second visit to the lake, I put on my watershoes and sat
on one of the large logs clogging the outlet stream and had
a nice feet soaking spot with a great view.
Trail Length + Elevation:
5 miles, 1900 feet (one-way)
Area:
mountains, mountain lake
When I did the hike:
Saturday, July 23, 2005; Thursday, July 30, 2009
Recommendation:
It is a pretty lake, but there are other lakes I'd put higher
on my list (if you have plenty of time, do it; if you are
there only for a short bit, do others).
Highline Trail and Swiftcurrent Trail or The Loop (Logan Pass to Many Glacier)
Directions:
For the (fee) shuttle for the Highline-Swiftcurrnt Pass hike: go
to the Many Glacier area and take the road to the end and park
in the lot near the Swiftcurrent Motel. The 7:30 am hiker's
shuttle stop is in front of the motel where the sign is [the next
pickup isn't until 12:45 pm]. [Note that the park is in Mountain
Time Zone, says the duffus.]
For the Highline-Loop hike: go to Logan Pass (free shuttle or
park, the parking lot is normally full by noon).
Note: If you're driving your car for one start and doing a half
loop of Logan Pass-Chalet-The Loop with a shuttle return, park
at Logan Pass and catch the (free) shuttle from The Loop back to
Logan Pass. The small west side shuttles only seat 12 and will
likely be full by the time they reach The Loop in the morning,
but there will likely be seats available heading to Logan Pass
from The Loop in the afternoon (2011 note: they've gotten better
on dealing with the shuttle problems as when I was waiting (with
others) for a shuttle at the Loop, a full shuttle came by and
they radioed down and had an empty shuttle come directly to the
Loop to pick us up).
Bathrooms at the visitor center at Logan Pass, chemical toilets
at the Granite Park Chalet.
$8 for hiker shuttle from Swiftcurrent to St Mary's and then
use the free Going-to-the-Sun park shuttle to Logans Pass
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
I did a large loop, but portions can also be done in shorter or
different hikes. The trail starts across the road from the Logan
Pass visitor center (next to the Continetal Divide sign) and
heads along the mountain. It is mostly an open hike (no shade)
until passing the first of the lakes. The trail is about 1 1/2
person width, so it is not too harrowing even though you have the
mountain wall to your right and the steep mountain slope to your
left [apparently many years ago it was narrower with a rope for
people to grab onto while they walked]. The "cliff" portion
doesn't last too long (and there is a similar section later on in
the hike). It is very pretty and the views all around are
wonderful. The trail goes above the Going-to-the-Sun road. If
you are doing a there-and-back hike, a good turning around spot
is right before the long, one switchback climb up a grassy slope
(the rocky area before the switchback is also a nice resting
spot, look for marmots) - but there are no views down to Lake
McDonald until well after the switchback. After that climb, you
will start to get views of the other side of the valley (but
still have a ways to go to Granite Park Chalet). Heck, when you
finally see the chalet in the distance, you still have a ways to
go (you will eventually start seeing it - it is on a open mound
and not in a side canyon). You will also start having views all
the way down to Lake McDonald. .8 miles before the chalet is a
junction with a hard right for the Grinnell Glacier Overlook.
In 2007 I finally took the right (after going, 'Oh, it's only .6
miles!). But, oh, what a killer .6 miles it is. It is a steep,
steep huff-and-puffer up the talus slope that had me stopping
(not just pausing) every few steps to catch my breath. Oh, but
what a reward! It is an absolutely stunning view of the Grinnell
Glacier area (actually 2 glaciers now - an upper and lower) from
above. The view includes the glaciers, various mountains, the
large glacier lake, and some small glacial lakes on the upper
shelf. When you reach the view point, go up to the left as far
as you feel comfortable and sit and enjoy the magnificent view.
If your hike takes you to the chalet area, you absolutely must
exert the extra effort for this sidetrip. Back on the Highline
Trail, after a long 7.6 miles (it's not as level as you'd think
with the listing of just 200 feet gained, due to a number of
smaller ups and downs), you finally reach the chalet (need
reservations to stay the night). There are vault toilets (but
no running water) and a couple of picnic tables outside and
places to sit in the chalet (sells some candy and water, not
much). Take a deserved long break. It took me a little over
3 1/2 hours (not rushing) to go from Logans Pass to Granite
Park Chalet (first visit, not including sidetrip to Grinnell
Glacier Overlook). For the hike out, you have the option of
going over Swiftcurrent Pass to the Many Glacier area or down
The Loop to the Going-to-the-Sun road.
Swiftcurrent Pass:
From the Chalet, it is .9 miles and 500 feet up to Swiftcurrent
Pass. At the top there is a rock-created chair (collapsed in
2009) - it's not very scenic at the pass itself. Then the trail
goes down, down, and down - about 2000 feet. After rounding one
of the bends, you are presented with the head of the
Swiftcurrent valley - a beautiful granite area with a number of
glaciers above and extremely tall waterfalls. This will be
your view as you switchback the rest of the way down. You can
also see the lakes down below and all the way down to the Many
Glacier area. Once you reach the bottom, the trail is mild the
rest of the way with just a couple of small climbs and a gradual
descent. I took a nice long rest at the first lake (Bullhead
Lake). There is no trail access to the middle lakes. At near
the top of the last lake is the Red Rock Falls (not impressive)
and you have about 1 1/2 miles left. Including my breaks and
not at a fast pace, it took me 8 hours to complete this hike
[didn't do Grinnell Glacier Overlook sidetrip].
From the chalet, it is 3.5 miles and 2200 feet down to the
Going-to-the-Sun Road (where you can catch the free park shuttle
back to Logan Pass or one of the other shuttle stops). The
trail loops down below the chalet (there is one good view back
of the chalet) and it is not a steep down. It is a wider trail
as horses use it to supply the chalet. Less than a mile from
the chalet, the trail enters a burn area from 2003 and stays in
it the rest of the way (not pretty). At the junction, take a
left (as the sign says) and the trail heads at a slight grade
up - but you are not too far from the road. There is a bridge
right before reaching the road and you can take a short down
creekside for a nice, well deserved feet soaking spot. There
are chemical toilets next to where you pick up the shuttle.
Note that the Highline Trail is sometimes referred to as the
Garden Wall (which is the name of the ridge above the trail).
Trail Length + Elevation:
Total: 15.1 miles, +700 feet, -2300 feet (Highline-Swiftcurrent)
Total: 11.1 miles, +200 feet, -2200 feet (Highline-The Loop)
7.6 miles, +200 feet from Logan's Pass to Granite Park Chalet
.9 miles, +500 feet from Granite Park Chalet to Swiftcurrent Pass
6.6 miles, -2300 feet from Swiftcurrent Pass to the Swiftcurrent
Motel parking lot
3.5 miles, -2200 feet from the Chalet to The Loop parking area
Area:
Mountains, mountains, mountains, waterfalls, lower mountain lakes
(not in bowls)
Picture
When I did the hike:
Sunday, 8/8/04 (Highline-Swiftcurrent); Wednesday, 7/27/05
(Highline to switchback); Friday, 8/24/07 (Grinnell Glacier
Overlook and The Loop); Saturday, 7/19/08 (2 miles of Highline);
Tuesday, 7/28/09 (Highline-Swiftcurrent); Wednesday, 8/17/11
(Highline-Loop with overlook sidetrip)
Recommendation:
Wonderful. If you don't have time for the full hike, at least
do part of the Highline Trail - I always recommend for those
looking for shorter outings to go to the bottom of the
switchback and back (and then do the Hidden Lake Overlook).
If you do go to the chalet area, you absolutely must make the
sidetrip (tough up) for the Grinnell Glacier Overlook for one
of the best views in the park. The hike down for The Loop
(don't hike up it) is blah, but it is shorter and no shuttle
fee for going by the chalet than Swiftcurrent Pass (a really
pretty hike, but a really long day hike). If you do have the
time and energy, the Highline-Swiftcurrent hike is one you'll
always remember (but you have to have your travel plans set
first - make sure you have a car or are staying in the Many
Glacier area; it's too long of a hike to have to have a set
finish time of trying to catch the shuttle).
Grinnell Glacier and Grinnell Lake (Many Glacier)
Directions:
To the Many Glacier area and either turn in the Many Glacier Motel
parking area (do this if you are going to use the water shuttle) or
turn left into the Grinnell Glacier parking lot shortly after the
Many Glacier Motel turn off (this is the start point I always use)
There are restrooms (flush toilets) to the right of the Grinnell
Glacier lot and in the Motel.
There is an outhouse about a mile before the glacier and
one near Grinnell Lake.
[I haven't done the water shuttle, so I don't know how much it
costs or what the time schedules are.]
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
If you park in the Many Glacier Motel parking lot (and don't use
the water shuttle), head down towards the hotel and then take the
Swiftcurrent trail that starts to the left (as you face the lake)
of the hotel near the shore. Stay on the level trail as it goes
around the lake and then follow the signs for Grinnell Glacier.
If you park at the Grinnell Glacier parking lot, head up the
trail along the west side of Swiftcurrent Lake. The trails meet
up just after the Swiftcurrent Lake boat launch. A little past
the Lake Josephine boat launch there is a junction for Grinnell
Lake and Grinnell Glacier. Head up. It is a gradual grade up
for the next several miles (then a hard up to end). After
passing the junction for Jenny Launch, the trail rounds the bend
and you start to get views down on Grinnell Lake and ahead for
the large waterfall that feeds the lake and of the glacier itself.
The trail ends at the base of the waterfall you see that is above
the waterfall that feeds Grinnell Lake. The views are wonderful.
As the trail goes above the lake, take a rest and enjoy the views
(on one of the rocky areas is a standard rest spot for me). The
trail takes a pair of switchbacks up [and if there is still
heavy snow cover, the trail may be closed shortly after the 2nd
switchback]. Pause and enjoy the cool (as in cool off - there
is little shade along this hike) small waterfalls that go next
to and over the trail (you'll likely get a little wet as the 2nd
fall goes over the trail; the 1st fall is right next to the 2nd
and one of my rest and enjoy the views spots on the hike) - you
still have a ways to go. The dirt and slate one-person width
trail continues along the mountainside and over a small mound to
a group of trees in front of a small snow field (sometimes all
melted). This is not the end (it used to be many, many years
ago), but there are a number of benches and logs and 2 outhouses.
Catch your breath because there is a big climb ahead. Huff and
puff your way up and then enjoy the magnificent area. At the
top is the end of the trail. There is a lake with icebergs in
front of the glacier. The glacier is shrinking (I noticed the
difference in just a year's time) and they expect it to be gone
by 2026. Make your way down and spend some time in the lake
area (don't just stop at the top of the mound). Hike down from
the mound to the left and make your way over the rocks to the
left to the outlet stream at the far end of the lake and rest
and enjoy the views there (and also get away from the crowds).
[Do _not_ walk on the glacier itself. It is dangerous and
people have been killed falling into unseen crevices.] It took
me about 2 1/2 hours to hike from the hotel to the glacier.
To reach Grinnell Lake, back at the Jenny Launch junction, head
down for 1/4 mile to the junction for Grinnell Lake and then
head right for a level mile through the forest to the lake.
There is a small beach at the end of the lake, but it can be
buggy there.
I hiked back along the east side of Lake Josephine, but would
suggest sticking to the west side of the lake [as I did for my
later visits]. The west side is in the open with little shade
and the east side is in the forest with few views of the
mountain scenery. The east side is also a horse trail, so you
have other odors. If you use the water shuttle, it goes across
Swiftcurrent Lake and then there is a short walk to Lake
Josephine where you catch another shuttle that goes across Lake
Josephine to Jenny Launch. From Jenny Launch, head right and a
short bit later is a junction for Grinnell Lake and Grinnell
Glacier. It's a mile to the lake. For the glacier, head right
and after crossing the bridge, the trail heads a steep up for
1/4 mile to intersect with the Grinnell Glacier trail and it is
about 2.2 miles from the junction to the glacier.
Trail Length + Elevation:
Total: about 12 miles, +1600 (using water shuttle, about 7 miles
for Grinnell Glacier and Grinnell Lake)
5.5 miles, +1600 feet to Grinnell Glacier
2.2 miles, -1400 feet from Grinnell Glacier to Jenny Launch junction
.25 miles, -100 feet from junction to Grinnell Lake junction
1 mile, level from junction to Grinnell Lake
about 3 miles, fairly level from lake back to parking lot
Area:
Mountains, mountain lakes, waterfalls, glaciers
Pictures
When I did the hike:
Thursday, 8/5/04; Tuesday, 7/26/05; Sunday, 9/10/06;
Wednesday, 8/22/07; Thursday, 7/17/08 [part of trail, rest
snow covered]; Saturday, 7/25/09; Tuesday, 8/23/11
Recommendation:
A must. Grinnell Glacier is my second favorite spot in Glacier.
If you don't have the time, you can skip Grinnell Lake (but it is
a pretty spot).
Cracker Lake (Many Glacier)
Directions:
To the Many Glacier area and turn in the Many Glacier Motel
parking area. The trailhead is at the far end of the lot, just
before the underpass. There is an outhouse near the lake.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
Good news, bad news: the destination is a beautiful shale
colored lake, but the trail is a combo-trail - horses also use
the trail. So it is a dusty, smelly hike. The trail starts
with a walk around the head of Sherburne Lake. Then comes the
climb with a few switchbacks. The trail levels off some as it
goes along the creek, with some milder ups. Enjoy your first
view of the long, oblong lake. Make sure you go to the top of
the rock mound for great views, a wonderful resting/lunch
spot, and you may see marmots playing. If you have the energy,
head down the the top of the lake where there is a little beach
and some old mining equipment. In the early 1900s, there was a
copper mine in the area. You can go up to the small mine by
heading back up from the lake shore to the dirt mound you see
and then it is a very steep scramble up (as in sit-and-shuffle
down) the talus slope to the mine entrance - not worth going
to as it's nothing more than a small entrance. It took me 2:40
to reach the lake. In 2011, I had the thrill of watching a
female moose finishing her swim across the lake.
Trail Length + Elevation:
6.1 miles, 1400 feet (one-way)
Area:
Mountains, mountain lakes
Pictures
When I did the hike:
Thursday, July 28, 2005; Wednesday, July 16, 2008; Monday,
August 21, 2011
Recommendation:
It's a beautiful stunning shale blue lake that is worth a
visit, but there are some extra smells, especially in the
first couple of miles, due to the horses. You can take a
horseback trip to the lake (large fee) - make sure it is
the outing to the lake (there is shorter ride along first
portion of the trail) - they stay for about 2 hours at
the lake.
Iceberg Lake, Ptarmigan Lake, and Ptarmigan Tunnel
(Many Glacier)
Directions:
To the Many Glacier area and take the road to the end. In the
parking lot, turn right just after the Swiftcurrent Motel into
the cabins area and drive, bearing left at junctions, to the
trailhead (not much space for cars, so may have to walk from the
main parking area). Bathrooms and store at the hotel. Outhouse
near Ptarmigan Falls, outhouse near Ice Lake, (none for
Ptarmigan Lake).
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
The one-person width dirt trail starts with a climb and then
is a more moderate trail with a slight grade up. The first
2.5 miles to Ptarmigan Falls are pretty uneventful - some nice
valley views, but not much more. And the falls themselves
are not impressive - that's changed some as there is now
(2009) a nice view of them at a spot along the trail (before
there was just glimpses of the falls through the trees) -
still not all that impressive of falls, but pretty. If you
need a rest, there is a nice rock outcrop at the top of the
falls (a nice place to feet soak - I always stop there going
and returning). A short ways after the falls is the junction
for Iceberg Lake and Ptarmigan Lake [I did a Y-shaped hike to
hit both in one hike, if almost 15 miles is too long for you
to do in one hike, split them up into separate hikes (or
skip Ptarmigan Tunnel)]. Continue heading straight from the
junction towards Iceberg Lake - the grade up remains mild and
there is no big climb to the lake besides the start of the
trail. The precious lake is in the bowl at the end of the
valley. After a little over 2 miles, you reach the pretty
lake (hopefully) with chunks of ice in it (small icebergs) in
a large granite bowl - the sides are massive mountains. Sit
and enjoy for a while. Back at the Iceberg-Ptarmigan
junction, take a left (heading from Iceberg Lake) and start
your climb. A lot of the 1000 feet gained to the lake is
gained early in the 1.6 mile hike. The grade does eventually
become more reasonable and then it is more up again (but not
as steep) as you get closer to the lake. Ptarmigan Lake is a
small mountain lake and not all that impressive (nice, but
not stunning) [it is not in a granite bowl]. Take a short
sidetrip down to the lake and take a break and look where you
are heading (and if you make it to the lake, you have to go
to the tunnel). You can see the trail with 2 switchbacks
heading up the orange talus slope at the far side of the
lake. When you are ready to tackle the slope, head up. It
is a little under a mile and up 600 feet from the lake to
the tunnel - the hike isn't as hard as it looks. The about
100 foot long tunnel is man-made and wide and you don't need
a flash light. The view from the other side is well worth
it. You have a nice view down the other valley and down on
the large Elizabeth Lake. To the left is a massive red
slope of the mountainside (where a trail continues down to
the lake). Continue past the tunnel a little ways for a
pretty view of the valley and glaciers up to the left.
Trail Length + Elevation:
Total: 14.8 miles, +2800 feet
2.5 miles, +700 feet to Ptarmigan Falls
2.2 miles, +500 feet from falls to Iceberg Lake
1.8 miles, +1000 feet from falls to Ptarmigan Lake
.9 miles, +600 feet from Ptarmigan Lake to Ptarmigan Tunnel
Area:
Mountains, waterfall, mountain lakes
Pictures
When I did the hike:
Friday, 8/6/04; Friday, 7/29/05 (to Iceberg only); Monday,
9/11/07 (Iceberg only); Thursday, 8/23/07; Sunday, 7/13/08
(Iceberg only); Sunday, 7/26/09 (both, saw 2 bears on trails);
Saturday 8/20/11
Recommendation:
Highly recommended, do at least Iceberg Lake. [If you aren't
going to go to the tunnel, skip Ptarmigan Lake (and if you
get to Ptarmigan Lake and are tired and thinking about
skipping the tunnel, don't - take a long break and then head
up).]
Pioa Lake (Many Glacier)
Directions:
On the way into the Many Glacier area, after entering the park,
look for a parking area on the right/north side of the road,
about a mile from the Many Glacier Lodge. Also the trailhead for
Appekunny Falls.
No facilities.
$20 per week per car or National Parks Pass
Trails:
The narrow horse trail heads to the right from the parking area.
It is mild with some up early through the thin trees and some
meadows. The meadows can be kind of pretty if the summer flowers
are in bloom. There is more of an up later with some
switchbacks. After the creek crossing (log bridge), there is
more up and then it is mild for a long ways through several
meadows. And then it is a harder up to the trail junction -
continue straight and up (the Sherburne Cut-off-trail is 1.2
miles to the road, supposedly a rough down/up and you don't get
any of the meadows - its trailhead is right next to the park
entrance station). From the junction it is 3 miles to Pioa Lake.
The trail remains in the trees and continues to head a hard up.
You finally reach the uneventful (tree surrounded, no long
distance views) Swiftcurrent Ridge Lake. The trail makes a
slight down next to the lake and then continues halfway around
it, but there is really no lakeside access or resting spots.
But, despite the lake's name, you are not at the ridge and still
have some up to go, including switchbacks. After finally
reaching the ridge, the trail goes along it (mild) a short bit
and then starts the long down into the opposite valley (lots of
fun going back). The trail heads down, down, down through the
trees. There is a nice view of a waterfall across the valley,
but that is the only view of the falls (the trail doesn't go
near it). The down finally ends as you reach the valley floor,
but you aren't at the lake yet and still have a ways to go.
The trail continues along side the creek (you are going around
the bend you see ahead) and then heads up the rock pile. After
some more up, the trail takes a slight down and reaches the
backcountry campground (outhouse in campground). Just ahead is
the lake. And the reaction is, "That's it?" The lake is not
that pretty and the distance views are not that great. I
reached the lake after a little over 3 hours.
Trail Length + Elevation:
6 miles, ?? ft one-way
Area:
Rocky Mountains, 2 blah mountain lakes.
Picture
When I did the hike:
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Recommendation:
Absolutely not, especially with all the other wonderful hikes in
the park.
Medicine Grizzly Lake and Triple Divide Pass (Bank Cut)
Directions:
On the east side of the park, take Hwy 89 to the Cut Bank turn
(signed turn), between St. Mary and Two Medicine (about 15 miles
south of St. Mary). Head west along the well graded (but
narrow) dirt road for 5 miles - the last mile (past the ranger
house) is really narrow and you'll hope that no one comes the
other way. There is a pull-in parking area on the right, just
before the campground, and the trailhead is in the middle of the
parking area.
Vault toilets in road campground and outhouse in the backcountry
campground.
$20 per week per car or National Parks Pass
Trails:
Note that Triple Divide Peak at the top right of the valley is
a rare point where the water flows in 3 different directions -
to the Pacific to the west, to the Gulf of Mexico to the
southeast, and to the Hudson Bay to the northeast.
With a rainy morning, I got a late start (which meant my plan
of doing both the lake and pass got tossed). The one-person
width dirt trail is mild as it makes its way up the valley with
some short ups and downs. It is mostly in the trees and
sometimes near and above the river. A little bit past the
wide, rocky dry creek bed that the trail goes through (just go
straight - the way to the right hooks back up with the trail
ahead), is an up a hillside to the ridge. The trail then
annoyingly heads down for a ways and then is mild to a creek
crossing (logs) and a trail junction is just ahead. Continue
straight and there is a little bit of an up to the backcountry
campground. The trail then resumes its mildness to the pass
junction - again go straight - and is mild the rest of the way
to the lake, including going through a long, open meadow with
great distance views of the top of the valley. The beautiful
good-sized lake sits in a bowl with a number of granite peaks
above and several waterfalls feeding the lake. Once you reach
the lake, you are not done - you need to walk halfway around
the lake (a little less than 1/2 mile further) to fully enjoy
all the views - the trail narrows for the walk around the lake
and the undergrowth will brush against your legs. You can
only see the Triple Divide Pass and the pretty waterfall that
comes down from that area from near the top of the lake.
There are a couple of small shores near the top of the lake
where you can rest and feet soak (not really any resting spots
near the bottom of the lake). Though 6 miles long, it is a
surprisingly mild hike to beautiful area. It took me 2:45 to
reach the lake. Saw a moose near the trail just past the
meadow on the way back.
Triple Divide Pass: I liked the area so much that I came back
a few days later (Wednesday) hoping to go to Triple Divide
Pass, but the weather again did not cooperate. From the pass
junction, take a right and the trail heads a steady up - not
huff-and-puff and no switchbacks. The trail soon gets above
the treeline and then there are great views down on Medicine
Grizzly Lake and of the top of the valley. Unfortunately,
there was a cloud layer hanging on the pass that day and the
rain started when I was about 3/4 mile from the pass. I
stopped and hunkered down until the rain turned to drizzle
and turned around - a couple who had gone ahead informed me
on the way back that it was cold, wet, and very windy at the
pass and you couldn't see much, so I had made the correct
decision in turning around. Oh well, guess I need another
trip to Glacier. And that return trip came in 2011 and I
made it to the pass. Although you are not huffing-and-
puffing on the trail to the pass it does seem to take
forever to get there (when you think you are close, you
aren't). But the views at the pass are great and there
are plenty of rocks to rest on and enjoy the views. To
the north, you can't see St. Marys Lake, but it is pretty.
There were a number of marmots at the pass when I was there
as well as a herd of female big horn sheep and kids on a
ledge below on the south side of the pass.
Trail Length + Elevation:
Medicine Grizzly Lake: 6 miles, 540 feet one-way
Triple divide Pass: 7.2 miles, 2380 feet one-way
[pass junction is about 4.5 miles from trailhead]
Area:
Mountains, mountain lake
Picture
When I did the hike:
Friday, July 25, 2009 (lake); Tuesday, August 16, 2011
(pass and lake)
Recommendation:
A beautiful mountain lake in a bowl and not that hard of a
hike. And a very pretty pass area.
Cobalt Lake (Two Medicine)
Directions:
Hwy 89 (from the north) or Hwy 2 (from the south) to Hwy 49 to
the Two Medicine Junction and take the road into the park for
about 9 miles to the parking area at the end of the road.
There is bathrooms near the park store and an outhouse in the
campground near the lake.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
The packed dirt trail starts to the left of the dock and goes
around the south shore of Two Medicine Lake (with no views of
the lake, unless you take the side trip to Paradise Point).
After about 1.5 miles of fairly level hiking is the branch
for Rockwell Falls and Cobalt Lake. After a little less than
a mile is Rockwell Falls. Take a break at the base of the
falls and enjoy the cool breeze [it was a warm day when I
went]. Right after the falls starts the up of the hike. And
it's up almost the rest of the way to Cobalt Lake. You are
not almost to the lake until you cross the creek (and then
you still have a bit of an up remaining. The pretty lake is
in a half bowl to the left.
Trail Length + Elevation:
5.7 miles, 1400 feet (one-way)
Area:
mountains, mountain lake
When I did the hike:
Thursday, July 21, 2005
Recommendation:
It's a pretty lake worth visiting and the falls provide a
nice break in the middle of the hike - both coming and going.
Note: it was very buggy during this trip.
Upper Two Medicine Lake and No Name Lake (Two Medicine)
Directions:
Hwy 89 (from the north) or Hwy 2 (from the south) to Hwy 49 to
the Two Medicine Junction and take the road into the park for
about 9 miles to harbor parking lot. Flush toilets and water at
the parking lot, outhouse near water shuttle drop off at far side
of Two Medicine Lake. The water shuttles across Two Medicine
Lake costs $10 (or $5 for one-way) and are at 9 am (hikers
shuttle), 10:30 am, 1 pm, 3 pm, and 5 pm with the return leg
about 15 minutes after each start time.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
Since the weather ruined my planned long loop in Two Medicine,
I decided to go back to the area and hit 2 of the lakes that
were on the back end of the loop, and cheat by using the water
shuttle (saving myself about 7 miles of hiking). [Of course,
The weather was absolutely beautiful this day.] It is a wider
trail (about 2-person width) and 1 mile fairly level to the
Twin Falls. The 2 falls come down separate sides of a rock
mound. From the falls, the trail narrows a little and
continues for 1 1/4 miles with only a slight up (no climb) to
Upper Two Medicine Lake. People looked at my pictures from
this lake and went, "Wow!", but my reaction was "That's it?"
Of all the lakes I visited in Glacier, I found Upper Two
Medicine Lake the least impressive [in 2004]. (And I was glad
I didn't hike to this lake as part of the long loop as I would
have been annoyed to spend the energy for 2 extra miles to this
lake.) I'm not sure why I found this lake so lacking as the
pictures make it look very pretty. Maybe it was because I had
planned on doing some feet soaking and couldn't find a place
to do so as the entire end of the lake was full of downed
logs. I stayed about 5 minutes before departing. Heading
back, a little after the falls is a trail junction for heading
to No Name Lake (and around the north shore of (middle) Two
Medicine Lake). After about .3 miles, the trail for No Name
Lake (and Dawson Pass) branches to the left and heads about
1.5 miles and up, up, up 800 feet to No Name Lake. The climb
is over a mile before calming some and there is a little bit
of level/small up as you near the lake. Now this lake I
really liked. It is a pretty, peaceful, small sized lake
with a shear granite wall on the far side. Because I wanted
to catch the 1:15 shuttle, I only stayed about 15-20 minutes
at the lake. I hiked a good pace (going and coming) to
complete this hike in about 3 2/3 hours (including the lake
stops).
Trail Length + Elevation:
Total: 8 miles, +1150 feet (add 7 miles if you don't use the
water shuttle)
.9 miles, fairly level from boat shuttle to Twin Falls
1.3 miles, +350 feet from falls to Upper Two Medicine Lake
1.8 miles, +800 feet from falls to No Name Lake
About 3.5 miles, fairly level each way if you hike around Two
Medicine Lake (either shore)
Area:
mountains, mountain lakes
Upper Two Medicine Lake Picture
Noname Lake Picture
When I did the hike:
Tuesday, August 10, 2004; Wednesday, September 13, 2007 (to
Upper Two Medicine Lake - still didn't like it)
Recommendation:
I'd skip Upper Two Medicine Lake, but I really liked No Name
Lake.
Oldman Lake (Two Medicine)
Directions:
Hwy 89 (from the north) or Hwy 2 (from the south) to Hwy 49 to
the Two Medicine Junction and take the road into the park for
about 9 miles, turn right into the campground area and drive
through the campground to the pull-in parking area on the left
for the trailhead (you'll see a bridge across the water to the
left and a bathroom (flush toilets and water) to the right).
There are outhouses near the lakes.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
This was my bad weather day. I did get hailed (pea sized)
on the previous day, but had hours of just clouds, some
sunny, and only about 20 minutes of rain. This day it
rained most of the hike. Add to that it was windy and
cool. My rain gear kept me mostly dry, but it wasn't a fun
hike. My original plan of hiking to Oldman Lake, up
Pitamakan Pass, over to Dawson Pass, down to No Name Lake,
and along Two Medicine Lake to complete the long 17 mile
loop got trashed due to the weather - it is on my "next
visit" list. The one-person width trail starts with a climb
and then has a descent as it rounds the mountain (heading
east from the parking lot). After crossing the small bridge
over the creek, the trail heads up the other valley. Even
though it gains 1500 feet over the 5.7 miles to the lake, it
is a mild hike with no really big climbs [now if you go to
the pass...]. About a mile before the lake, the trail goes
through an old burn area and you can see some fire scars on
the trees. The lake itself is very pretty, even with the
lousy weather [even better with the beautiful day I had in
2009]. 2009 Note: there used to be 2 access points to the
lake from the Oldman/Pitkman Pass trail, but they've closed
the first one (from which it was .5 miles to the lake). The
only way to the lake is now further ahead along the trail
(if you look carefully, you might spot where the old branch
was) and it is .3 miles from the signed junction on the
main trail to the lake, with a bit of a down to it.
If you go to the lake and aren't doing the loop, take a 5
minute sidetrip from the lake junction and continue up the
main trail a little bit (before it starts the big up) for
pretty views down on the lake.
Note: there is a bear that likes the area and the lake and
campground are often closed to visit (though you can still
do the loop as the lake is .3 miles from the main trail).
2004, 2008, and 2009 were the only visits I made to the park
where the lake wasn't closed - and for the hike in 2008 a
group of campers coming down told me that the bear had
visited them during the night (so I didn't go to the lake)
and the area was closed the next day. So if you want to go
to Oldman Lake, first check with the rangers to make sure the
bear is not around and the lake is not closed. Bear update:
unfortunately, the bear was deemed to have become too
comfortable around humans and, thus, and danger to humans
and was destroyed.
Trail Length + Elevation:
5.5 miles, +1500 feet (one-way)
[16.9 miles, +2450 feet if you do the loop combining
Pitamakan Pass and Dawson Pass]
Area:
mountains, mountain lake
Picture
When I did the hike:
Saturday, August 7, 2004; Wednesday, August 24, 2011
Recommendation:
It's a beautiful lake and area, worth visiting even if you
don't do the full loop (and worth the extra side trip to go
lakeside if you do the full loop).
Pitamakan Pass and Dawson Pass Loop (Two Medicine)
Directions:
Hwy 89 (from the north) or Hwy 2 (from the south) to Hwy 49 to
the Two Medicine Junction and take the road into the park for
about 9 miles, turn right into the campground area and drive
through the campground to the pull-in parking area on the left
for the trailhead (you'll see a bridge across the water to the
left and a bathroom (flush toilets and water) to the right).
There are outhouses near the lakes.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
This was one of two hikes that prompted my returned to Glacier.
I started early and headed towards Oldman Lake. The trail
starts with an up along the side of Rising Wolf Mountain for a
mile and then a down for a mile to the creek crossing. The
trail then heads a mild up the valley for a little over 3
miles. You gain a lot of elevation during this time, but it
is spread out with no climbs. There is a trail branch to
Oldman Lake - the lake was temporarily closed while I was
there in 2005 due to bears (I actually saw the "bear dogs"
patrolling the area as I headed up). If the lake is open, do
take the short (.3 mile little bit of a down) sidetrip for a
visit to the pretty lake. From the lake branch, the trail
starts its climb up, up, and up to Pitamakan Pass, with a few
switchbacks. There are wonderful views down on Oldman Lake as
you head up to the ridge high above. On the ridge, at the
first trail junction (which is actually the pass, even though
you still have more up to go), you can look down into the next
valley at the deep blue Pitamakan Lake. Continue up, past
the Cut Bank Pass junction, and at the turn you've reached the
continental divide, with a nice ledge to rest on and enjoy the
views of mountains deeper in the park. Steal your nerves as
the trail then gets nasty as it narrows and you have mountain
to the left and steep drop off to the right - at times the
trail even angles to the left-right (which I REALLY don't
like). Take your time and watch your step. After about a
mile, the trail finishes going around Mt. Morgan and goes
along an open ridge where you again have wonderful views down
on Oldman Lake (while you continue to have nice long views
deeper into the park the other direction). The trail then
goes back to the ledge-like hike (but not quite as narrow as
around Mt. Morgan and none of the left-right angle junk)
around Flinsch Peak and after a little over a mile reaches
Dawson Pass. Take a rest on the open ridge, passing back
over the continental divide, and enjoy the views (No Name Lake
is not visible from pass, though). The trail then drops a
steep 1600 feet over the next 1.5 miles to No Name Lake.
Take a side trip to the lake and enjoy the pretty, small
sized lake. Another 1.5 miles and 800 feet down takes you to
the junction for Two Medicine Lake. You can either cheat by
hooking a right and then a left (total of a mile) to take the
fee water shuttle across the lake (you'll have to know the
departure times - and you'll then have to walk the road back
to the trailhead) or hook a left and hike for 3 fairly level
miles along the Two Medicine Lake north shore (some views of
the lake along the way, but not a ton, kind of blah) back to
the trailhead. I wasn't rushing and took several long breaks
along the way and it took me 10 hours to complete this hike.
Trail Length + Elevation:
Total: 16.9 miles, +2500 feet
5.5 miles, +1400 feet to Oldman Lake
1.4 miles, +1000 feet from Oldman Lake to Pitamakan Pass
over 2.5 miles from Pitamakan Pass to Dawson Pass
1.7 miles, -1650 feet from Dawson Pass to No Name Lake
2 miles, -800 feet from No Name Lake to the trail junction
About 3 miles, fairly level along Two Medicine Lake
Area:
mountains, mountain lakes
When I did the hike:
Friday, July 22, 2005; Thursday, July 23, 2009
Recommendation:
[2004] A long, tough hike, but the views between the passes
are wonderful and I really like both Oldman and No Name lakes.
[2009] I think I told myself during 2005 that I wouldn't
repeat the hike as that one ledge section is too harrowing for
my nerves, but had forgotten that by 2008 (planned on
repeating, but weather prevented) since it is such a beautiful
hike. I did say "won't do that again" in 2009, but we'll see
how long it is before the memory of the scenery again erases
the scary part. A hike to the continental divide (either
way) is beautiful (though still hard) and not scary.
Running Eagle Falls (Two Medicine)
Directions:
Hwy 89 (from the north) or Hwy 2 (from the south) to Hwy 49 to
the Two Medicine Junction and take the road into the park for
about 7 miles to the Running Eagle Falls parking lot.
Chemical toilets at the parking lot, no water.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
It is just a short little graveled (wheelchair accessible)
loop the goes to a really neat waterfall. It is not tall,
but it is wide and it comes out of the mountainside, with
granite above and below the falls. With my 2008 visit, I had
my first view of the falls as a double falls - as in water
coming out of the hole in the mountainside and over the top
of the wall as well - neat, but I actually like the one-fall
view better.
Trail Length + Elevation:
.6 miles, level paved loop
Area:
Woods to a falls that comes out of the mountain side.
Picture
When I did the hike:
Saturday, 8/7/04; Tuesday, 8/10/04; 7/21-7/23/05 [visited
each day]; 9/13-9/14/06; Monday, 8/27/07; 7/18-7/19.08;
Thursday, 7/23/09; Monday, 8/15/11; 8/24-8/25/11
Recommendation:
If you are any where near Two Medicine, you have to stop here.
One of my favorite places in the park.
Twin Lakes (Jewel Basin)
Directions:
From Kalispell, take Rt 93 south to Rt 82 west (top of
Flathead Lake). Continue straight at the Rt 35 junction
(stop light) and the road turns into Rt 83. A few miles
east of the junction, turn left on to Echo Lake Rd (there
is a blinking caution light on Rt 83 at the turn for the
Swan River Elementary School and the turn is before Rt
83 heads south) and follow the brown signs for Jewel
Basin. After over 2 miles, turn right on to Foothills
Rd (again sign for Jewel Basin) and then turn right (as
road curves left) for Jewel Basin Rd and it is 7 steep
miles of one-lane good dirt road to the parking area at
the end. And the road is steep, so use a lower gear and
keep an eye on your temperature gauge (my sedan got very
hot and the next day a group in a jeep were concerned as
the fan kept running after they turned the engine off).
Also, use a lower gear when heading out so that you don't
fry your brakes.
Vault toilet in parking area.
Free.
Trails:
Take the trail to the left of the ranger house (not the
old road to the right of the info sign). The one-person
width trail heads a steady (not hard) up with a couple
of turns before heading to the left. After .6 miles is
a signed junction with a trail heading to the right -
continue straight. The trail heads more of a not hard
ups and some short downs as it heads to the left. After
a good ways, the trail rounds a last bend and heads up
to a low point on the ridge. Just on the other side of
the ridge is a trail junction - continue straight. The
trail heads a mild down from the ridge and keep an eye
out for a trail branch to the right not too far from
the last trail branch (the "Twin Lks" sign was hard to
spot on my visit) - take a right at that branch. The
thin trail makes its way down to the end of the first
lake (not a direct down, some weaves and reaches the
southeast end of the lake). There is a little shore
where the trail ends. The thin tree surrounded lake
does have a view of the ridge above and is pretty,
but not stunning. [I didn't try reaching the 2nd lake
as there wasn't a clear path to that lake.] After
leaving the lake and reaching the main trail, take a
left on that trail and a bit further (and not much
effort) is a pretty view down on both lakes.
Trail Length + Elevation:
2.5 miles, 770 ft up, 200 ft down one-way
Area:
Mountains, mountain lakes
Picture
When I did the hike:
Thursday, August 25, 2011
Recommendation:
It is a pretty area, but I had just spent over a week in
Glacier National Park with its stunning lakes. If you
have extra time after Glacier, it is a scenic area. The
Twin Lakes were the easiest of the 3 hikes I did in Jewel
Basin.
Crater Lake (Jewel Basin)
Directions:
From Kalispell, take Rt 93 south to Rt 82 west (top of
Flathead Lake). Continue straight at the Rt 35 junction
(stop light) and the road turns into Rt 83. A few miles
east of the junction, turn left on to Echo Lake Rd (there
is a blinking caution light on Rt 83 at the turn for the
Swan River Elementary School and the turn is before Rt
83 heads south) and follow the brown signs for Jewel
Basin. After over 2 miles, turn right on to Foothills
Rd (again sign for Jewel Basin) and then turn right (as
road curves left) for Jewel Basin Rd and it is 7 steep
miles of one-lane good dirt road to the parking area at
the end. And the road is steep, so use a lower gear and
keep an eye on your temperature gauge (my sedan got very
hot and the next day a group in a jeep were concerned as
the fan kept running after they turned the engine off).
Also, use a lower gear when heading out so that you don't
fry your brakes.
Vault toilet in parking area, outhouse near Crater Lake.
Free.
Trails:
Take the trail to the left of the ranger house (not the
old road to the right of the info sign). The one-person
width trail heads a steady (not hard) up with a couple
of turns before heading to the left. After .6 miles is
a signed junction with a trail heading to the right -
take the right. The mostly mild trail goes for .7 miles
to the next trail junction. Take a right at that
junction (#7). Not too far ahead, after a bend in the
trail, is the next junction - a 6 prong junction (with 2
of them old roads - the road to the right is where the
old road next to the ranger station reaches this
junction - I took that route on the return an it was
fairly ugly). The way you want is the 3rd prong to the
left, almost directly across the trail you arrived on.
The trail is still #7. The trail is mild (with some
down). The trail rounds a bend and you can see Martha
Lake below to the right (the trail doesn't go to that
lake). The trail takes a steeper down for a bit and then
not a hard up for a bit. The trail is then mostly mild,
with some small ups and downs, to Birch Lake (a popular
fishing hole). Just past the small mound with a solo
dead tree is Birch Lake (and a nice resting spot). You
can take either trail around the lake - it is shorter and
a better trail to the right [which, of course means I
went to the left - I took the other branch on the way
back]. The trail for Crater Lake branches off the Birch
Lake shore trail at the southeast end of the lake. For
the left: after the mound, take the trail baring left and
then stay on the trail as it heads around the lake -
sometimes a little bit away from the lake and there is a
nice view of the east valley at the far end of the lake.
After a down is an open area and just past that is a
signed Y-junction for Crater Lake (have to keep an eye
out for it) - take the hard left. For the right: go up
the mound and then down to the right and cross the outlet
stream (no bridge, should be able to rock and log hop
across) and the trail stays close to the shore most of
the way. Near the southeast end of the lake, the trail
heads a little bit away from the lake and look for the
Y-junction for the Crater Lake trail and continue
straight (if you reach an open grassy area next to the
shore and see the trail heading up, you missed the
junction). On the Crater Lake trail, the trail is mild
and heads up a little bit and goes by a small ridge with
a view to the east. After that, the trail curves in to
the left and soon you'll see a small lake down to the
left. AFter a mile from Birch Lake is a trail branch to
the right (you may not spot it, just past a stream
crossing) - continue straight. The trail goes through
an open slope and you can see down on a small lake to
the right (there is a thin trail that goes to that lake
at the ridge at the far end). There is a rock crop at
the end of the ridge and the trail heads down to the
left before curving right and then hugs the hillside as
it heads to the next valley - there might be some muddy
spots and rocks to go over (the trail is mostly dirt up
to that point). The trail heads to the left around a
rock mound and then around and up another mound. At
the top, the trail zigs to the left then heads right
and then is a mild to steady down (which means an up on
the return). After a bit you'll spot the lake below.
The small building to the right is an outhouse - there
is also a nice view of the lake from above there. The
trail goes to the left as it rounds another rock mound
and soon reaches lakeside. Find a nice resting and
feet soaking spot at the pretty lake. The lake is
slanted rock surrounded with occasional trees (no
stunning mountain ridges above).
Trail Length + Elevation:
5.3 miles, 610 ft up, 560 ft down one-way
Area:
Mountains, mountain lakes
When I did the hike:
Friday, August 26, 2011
Recommendation:
It is a pretty area, but I had just spent over a week in
Glacier National Park with its stunning lakes. If you
have extra time after Glacier, it is a scenic area.
Crater Lake was the prettiest of the lakes I visited in
Jewel Basin, but it is a long hike.
Mt. Aeneas (Jewel Basin)
Directions:
From Kalispell, take Rt 93 south to Rt 82 west (top of
Flathead Lake). Continue straight at the Rt 35 junction
(stop light) and the road turns into Rt 83. A few miles
east of the junction, turn left on to Echo Lake Rd (there
is a blinking caution light on Rt 83 at the turn for the
Swan River Elementary School and the turn is before Rt
83 heads south) and follow the brown signs for Jewel
Basin. After over 2 miles, turn right on to Foothills
Rd (again sign for Jewel Basin) and then turn right (as
road curves left) for Jewel Basin Rd and it is 7 steep
miles of one-lane good dirt road to the parking area at
the end. And the road is steep, so use a lower gear and
keep an eye on your temperature gauge (my sedan got very
hot and the next day a group in a jeep were concerned as
the fan kept running after they turned the engine off).
Also, use a lower gear when heading out so that you don't
fry your brakes.
Vault toilet in parking area, outhouse near Picnic Lakes.
Free.
Trails:
Take the trail to the left of the ranger house (not the
old road to the right of the info sign). The one-person
width trail heads a steady (not hard) up with a couple
of turns before heading to the left. After .6 miles is
a signed junction with a trail heading to the right -
take the right. The mostly mild trail goes for .7 miles
to the next trail junction. Take a right at that
junction (#7). Not too far ahead, after a bend in the
trail, is the next junction - a 6 prong junction (with 2
of them old roads). Take 2nd prong to the left (just to
the right of the old road that heads up) for the Mt.
Aeneas trail (#717). The trail heads a steady up with a
couple of switchbacks a bit of a ways ahead. There are
some more switchbacks higher up. Go by an old electric
building and head right along the ridge. The trail stays
along the ridge as it heads up to the summit - which you
can see still a bit ahead (and it is an up, some steep).
There are pretty views of the area at the summit (Birch
Lake is the lake below to the right, Picnic Lakes below
to the left, and other lakes and small mountains are
visible in the distance). You can return the way you can
or do the hike as a longer loop. For the loop, continue
straight from the summit and the trail heads steeply down
along the open ridge to the east (not a long down, but
steep). The trail hooks to the left and heads not as
steep of a down along the left side of a basin and then
over a small ridge. The trail then is a steady down,
mostly in the trees, all the way to the Picnic Lakes.
After going by the outhouse is a signed junction - take
a left and soon reach the lakes. The 2nd Picnic Lake is
to the right and the trail goes next to it, crossing the
inlet stream on a bridge. Before the bridge, making
your way on paths, go to the left for a short sidetrip
to reach the prettier 1st Picnic Lake with Mt. Aeneas
looming directly above. Back on the trail after the
bridge, the trail heads a steady up (and it is an up) to
the notch in the ridge. At the ridge is a junction -
go straight over to the other side of the ridge and the
trail then heads down, down, down with a number of
switchbacks. A bit after the switchbacks end is a trail
junction to the right (cutoff trail, started hike on
this trail) - take the right and go for .7 miles and
then take a left at the T-junction and it's .6 miles
back to the parking area.
Trail Length + Elevation:
Loop: 6.7 miles,
3 miles, 1778 ft to Mt. Aeneas summit
1.2 miles, 888 ft down Mt. Aeneas to Picnic Lakes
2.5 miles, 588 ft up, 1478 down Picnic Lakes to parking
Area:
Mountains, mountain lakes
Picture
When I did the hike:
Saturday, August 27, 2011
Recommendation:
It is a pretty area, but I had just spent over a week in
Glacier National Park with its stunning lakes. If you
have extra time after Glacier, it is a scenic area. It
is not as hard of a hike to the top of Mt. Aeneas as you
would think [but I was in excellent condition] and the
hike from down the backside of Mt. Aeneas is pretty.
Holland Falls
Directions:
Rt 83 to just south of Condon (about 75 miles from I70
and 70 miles from Kalispell). Turn west at the sign for
Lower Holland Lake on to the paved road and take the road
to then large parking area at the end (baring left at the
fork in the road).
Vault toilet at parking area.
Free.
Trails:
Take the trail at the top right of the parking area. At
the trail junction a short ways ahead, continue straight/
right along the 1-person width loose dirt covering packed
dirt trail. The trail soon curves and goes alongside
the very large Lower Holland Lake (some times right next
to, some times a little ways away) as it heads to the
top of the lake. The trail is mostly mild with some
small ups and downs. After going over a bridge crossing
a stream, the trail heads mostly a steady up on an open
trail (can be warm). Once you reach the falls area,
make your way over the rocks for better views. It's
nice, but not stunning nor worth it on a hot day.
Trail Length + Elevation:
1.6 miles, 750 ft one-way
Area:
large lake, waterfall
When I did the hike:
Saturday, August 27, 2011
Recommendation:
If you are in the area and have extra time, worth a short
visit - nothing you should specially plan for.
Upper Holland Lake and Sapphire Lakes loop
Directions:
Rt 83 to just south of Condon (about 75 miles from I70
and 70 miles from Kalispell). Turn west at the sign for
Lower Holland Lake on to the paved road and take the road
to then large parking area at the end (baring left at the
fork in the road).
Vault toilet at parking area.
Free.
Trails:
Take the trail at the top right of the parking area. At
the trail junction a short ways ahead, take a left. The
1-person width loose dirt covering packed dirt trail is
in the thin trees and is not hard for a bit (some ups
and downs) and then has some switchbacks up. Continue
on the main trail past 2 trail branches on the left (the
2nd is the return spot from Sapphire Lakes). The trail
is mild a ways as it heads alongside the mountainside.
As you hear the waterfall, creek (no views of the falls,
the trail is above them), the trail heads down for a
bit before angling up through the side canyon, through
which the trail goes almost all the way to Upper Holland
Lake. After crossing the creek on a single-log bridge
and a short zig-zag, the trail reaches the (sign on a
tree) Owl Creek junction - take a left and the trail
continues heading a not hard up a little ways away from
the creek. There will be a couple of branches along
the way - you can take either as they meet up again
(the main trail is a combo-trail for horse use). Cross
the creek again on a flat-top log with a rail and after
a bit, the trail heads more of an up as it weaves for
a while. Then it is a mixture of mild up and steady
up. After going next to a small falls, the trail is
mild to the lake (still a bit away), except for a small
up right before the lake. The good-sized lake is tree
surrounded with small mountains in the distance - nice
but not worth 7 miles. The trail continues around the
left side of the lake. A little over half way on the
left side of the lake is a signed junction for Sapphire
Lakes - take a left and the trail immediately starts
heading up (and this is an up) with a number of
switchbacks. The trail is heading up to a ridge on the
left, not to the gap to the right. Up, up, up. Once
you finally reach the ridge, the trail continues to
head up (don't left the first bit of mild fool you),
but not as harsh - it is a ways before reaching the
Sapphire Lakes junction. There are a lot of dead trees
in the area. After a mild section with some down is
the trail junction for the lakes - take a left and the
larger of the twin lakes is not too far ahead (the
smaller lake is to the left near the larger lake, but it
is hard to spot the junction heading from the main
trail). At the lake, take a left and round the lake to
a nice (and well earned) feet-soaking resting rock at
the end of a bit of land that extends into the lake.
Prettier than the Upper Holland Lake, but still not
worth all the work. On the way back, you might spot the
trail branch to the right a short bit from the larger
lake that goes to the smaller lake. Back on the main
trail, take a left and head for Holland Lookout Pass
(tallest point on this hike). The trail heads a sharp
up and then a mild down for a bit with some nice views
down on the Sapphire Lakes. After a bit of down and
mild as the trail rounds the tip of the pseudo-valley,
the trail heads towards a ridge on the left. At the
signed junction, take a left and the trail switchbacks
up (and it is an up) to the pass. The trail heads a
sharp down from the pass and then heads right - it is a
narrow, nasty trail through a not too old burn area.
There is some mild and some down. The trail rounds a
bend and goes through some trees and there is a small
open area (good resting spot) with another trail heading
right (Lookout Trail) - continue straight. The narrow
trail continues heading to the right, mostly at a down
angle through more burn area and you can see down on
Lower Holland Lake. Round a bend and start the many
switchbacks down, down, down. And down, down, down -
mostly in the trees now. After forever and a day, the
trail finally reaches the Upper Holland Lake junction -
take a right and it is 1.3 miles back to the parking
area.
Trail Length + Elevation:
Loop total: 15 miles, 3390 ft
6.7 miles, 2096 ft to Upper Holland Lake
1 mile, 854 ft to Sapphire Lakes
1.5 miles, 440 ft to Holland Lookout Pass (7440 elev)
5.8 miles, 3390 ft down to parking area
Area:
large lake, waterfall
When I did the hike:
Saturday, August 27, 2011
Recommendation:
No. A ton of work and the lakes just aren't that
pretty.
Louise Lake (Cardwell)
Directions:
Take I90 to the Cardwell exit, about 25 miles east of
Butte, and head south on Hwy 359 for 5 miles to South
Boulder Rd (#107) - near mile marker 6 and the turn is
just past going over the creek. Turn right on to the
paved road and 3 miles later the pavement goes away but
you still have 10.5 miles to go. The dirt road was fairly
good (don't need 4wd, I made it in my sedan) and there
was a way around one of the rough spots. At the fork in
the road 13.5 miles from Hwy 359 is an open grassy area
and a vault toilet - if you are not in a 4wd vehicle/high
clearance, this is where you'll want to park (the road is
okay most of the way, but there are some rough spots and
I was glad I parked at the fork). From the fork, take the
right junction and it is about 1.5 miles of rough dirt
road to the trailhead.
Disperse camping is allowed in the public lands and
non-fenced areas (about a mile before the fork and on).
The toilet at the fork is the only one.
Free.
Trails:
For walking the road from the fork, take the right
junction and the road is fairly mild with some not hard
ups and downs. After a mile is a sign for 1/2 mile
further to Louise Lake and Lost Cabin Lake THs and the
road heads a little more of an up. At the next signed
junction, take a left for Bismark Reservoir and not much
further is a small parking area in the trees. Continue
straight through the parking area and around the road
barrier for Louise Lake. After walking a bit of the old
road, bare left on to the trail (with a small camping
spot straight ahead and (not much of a) reservoir ahead to
the right). The very good trail crosses the creek on a
great bridge and the trail heads a not hard up in the
trees with a couple of long switchbacks and rock hopping
across some small streams. After the 4th stream crossing,
the trail continues to the right before making another
switchback (still not a hard up) and approaches the creek
again. The trail then weaves its way up to the lake with
a few more spaced out switchbacks. The pretty, niced
sized lake is set in a mountain bowl. I sat and read and
feet soaked for quite a while.
Trail Length + Elevation:
4 miles, 1320 ft one-way
Area:
Forest, mountains, mountain lake
When I did the hike:
Sunday, August 14, 2011
Recommendation:
It is nice, but not really worth that long drive to reach.
But there are two really good trails in the area (and
there is a third trail in the area that I didn't do) - so
if you want some solitude and plan on camping in the area
for a couple of nights, it's remoteness keeps the crowds
away.
Lost Cabin Lake (Cardwell)
Directions:
Take I90 to the Cardwell exit, about 25 miles east of
Butte, and head south on Hwy 359 for 5 miles to South
Boulder Rd (#107) - near mile marker 6 and the turn is
just past going over the creek. Turn right on to the
paved road and 3 miles later the pavement goes away but
you still have 10.5 miles to go. The dirt road was fairly
good (don't need 4wd, I made it in my sedan) and there
was a way around one of the rough spots. At the fork in
the road 13.5 miles from Hwy 359 is an open grassy area
and a vault toilet - if you are not in a 4wd vehicle/high
clearance, this is where you'll want to park (the rockier
road is okay most of the way, but there are some rough
spots and I was glad I parked at the fork). From the
fork, take the right junction and it is about 1.5 miles
of rough dirt road to the trailhead.
Disperse camping is allowed in the public lands and
non-fenced areas (about a mile before the fork and on).
The toilet at the fork is the only one.
Free.
Trails:
For walking the road from the fork, take the right
junction and the road is fairly mild with some not hard
ups and downs. After a mile is a sign for 1/2 mile
further to Louise Lake and Lost Cabin Lake THs and the
road heads a little more of an up. At the next signed
junction, take a left for Bismark Reservoir and not much
further is a small parking area in the trees. Take the
trail to the right in the middle of the parking area for
Lost Cabin Lake [note that the trail was re-routed at
some point in the past and you'll see bits of old trail
as you hike the newer trail]. The trail heads a mild up
in the trees for a ways. After rock hopping across a
stream, the trail takes a short zig-zag (little more of
an up, but not hard). The trail is then a mixture of
straights and short zig-zags at a mild to not hard up.
The trail crosses a small bridge over a stream and then
is a mild down, a short up, and more down as the trail
heads around a marshy meadow. The trail is mild a good
ways. After crossing the creek over a bridge, the trail
heads more of an up (but still not hard) as it weaves up
the hillside. The trail goes next to the creek for a
little bit, crosses another bridge, and then makes a
couple of wiggles up. After the trail goes in front of a
rock slope, it soon reaches the treeline and then the
lake. Find a nice resting spot (hopefully not too buggy)
and enjoy the scenic lake. There are trees along side
1/3rd of the lake and talus sloped mountains on the other
sides. Pretty and peaceful. If you only have for one,
Lost Cabin Lake is the prettier hike and lake with Louis
Lake.
Trail Length + Elevation:
5 miles, 1400 ft one-way
Area:
Forest, mountains, mountain lake
Picture
When I did the hike:
Sunday, August 14, 2011
Recommendation:
It is nice, but not really worth that long drive to reach.
But there are two really good trails in the area (and
there is a third trail in the area that I didn't do) - so
if you want some solitude and plan on camping in the area
for a couple of nights, it's remoteness keeps the crowds
away.