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Hefner Grill
9201 E. Lake Hefner ParkwayOklahoma City, OK
(405) 748-6113
Located on the east shore of Lake Hefner, Hefner Grill makes the most of Oklahoma's
frequently spectacular sunsets visible across the lake through the restaurant's giant plate glass
windows. Originally I thought the view was a fringe benefit to the good food here, but now I think
they have raised the prices to the point that you have to pay for the view.
The restaurant seems to have made a gradual transformation from the time when it was called
Pearl's Lakeside Seafood Grill, but appears now to be independent from Pearl's. The former
Lakeside Grill, now called Hefner Grill, is pretty much the same except that a few menu items
have been added. The price change is the main factor that makes me enjoy Hefner Grill less than
Lakeside Grill.
Hefner Grill has dropped some of the Cajun influences that Pearl's uses as one of its
themes, and is one of the main things that distinguishes it from the Pearl's Restaurants that are
still operating around OKC. Hefner Grill still specializes in the southern style shrimp and catfish
that were popular at Pearl's, but also includes fish specialties from other regions. Some of the
Cajun side dishes and seasonings have been dropped, but blackened fish is still available.
Shrimp is probably the most popular dish, and this is supposed to be the place to get
catfish. On a visit soon after the change from Pearl's the waitress told me that the salmon was
farm raised, but all other fish were caught in the wild. Even though I appreciate the wide variety
of fish served here, the shrimp always seems to be the best item at Hefner Grill (as well as
Pearl's and Lakeside Grill that were here before).
Hefner Grill is located off of Lake Hefner Parkway (State Highway 74) at the Britton Road exit.
There is a cluster of restaurants along the lake shore, and all are known for being "noisy" (this is a
code word signifying that they probably serve almost as much alcohol as food). Hefner Grill has
a bar, but I have not found it to contribute substantially to the noise level of the restaurant.
After several visits I finally made it when the weather was warm enough to check out the outdoor
patio. As in other Oklahoma City restaurants, though, the patio has become the de facto smoking
area for the restaurant since state law has all but eliminated indoor smoking. The views, though,
are just as good from inside the restaurant if you want to avoid the smoke, as I do.
The dinner seafood entrées used to come with a House Salad, but now they cost
$3 extra. This is actually one of the best parts of the meal, though, and may be worth the price.
The lettuce is fresh, and the dressings are made from scratch. I thought the Cajun style
vinagrette dressing was flavorful and fresh, but others have been equally good.
Several soups and appetizers are available as well. Pearl's served a Seafood Gumbo
that had a dark color, and was filled with so much rice, seafood, and other ingredients it was easier
to eat with a fork than a spoon. I do not know if the gumbo now served is the same, but Maryland
crab bisque is also available for a soup.
The Southwestern Bean Soup, made with white beans, was flavorful, nutritious, and
very good quality. It was the soup of the day (served on Tuesdays), and may be representative
of the quality of soups served on other days of the week.
Several sandwiches are served, and they are not cheap but they are good quality. The Tuna
Blackened Sandwich made a good casual meal for a moderate appetite. However, I no longer
found the tuna sandwich on the menu after the change from Lakeside Grill to Hefner Grill.
At the original Pearl's I had Pecan Crusted Trout that was split open and filleted. The skin
was left on the bottom to keep it moist, and the top was deep fried. The cooking method was called
"light deep frying" because it was only fried for a short time, leaving the crust crispy but the fish moist as
if it were baked. This dish was quite a unique and delicious experience. I do not want to leave the
impression that the fish was top quality, because it did have to be flown in. The cooking style used
at Pearl's, however, might well compete with some of the best fish houses in the country. I certainly
thought the pecan crust was first rate, and the fish itself was fresh enough to be free of the telltale
"fishy" taste found at so many restaurants.
After the change to Lakeside Grill I found the trout to be more greasy than before with the fish not
being as flavorful. It still did not taste "fishy," though, so it was still a good dish. After just one sample,
though, I am reluctant to speculate whether this reflects a general trend, and I have not tried it at all
at Hefner Grill (the latest incarnation of the restaurant that opened in 2010).
Fried Shrimp has been the standout dinner I have tried, with a fresh shrimp and a good tasting
crust. My standard for judging shrimp is based on trips to Galveston, Texas, and for years Oklahoma
had nothing that approached the fresh catches found along the Gulf. These days, though, the shrimp
is getting a lot closer to tasting fresh, and Hefner Grill has some of the best. This has been true
at the previous restaurants (Pearl's and Lakeside Grill) as well.
I am not crazy about Shrimp Cocktail, but the one at Hefner Grill seemed fairly good,
with large shrimp and a flavorful sauce.
In the past I have driven all over Washington, Oregon, and northern California trying to find good
fish and chips (as well as sampling several places in London), so this gives an idea how picky I am
about this dish. Of course Willy's Fish and Chips at Hefner Grill did not compare with ones I
have had in other places, but they were surprisingly good. The tilapia at Lakeside Grill may have
been slightly better, but the dish at Hefner Grill was still enjoyable (I wrote in my notes that it was
made with pollack, but the menu says haddock, so I do not know which is correct). In any case
the batter was good, and I skipped the sauces in favor of my favorite condiment with this dish, malt
vinegar (which thankfully was available).
Of course, most restaurants in Oklahoma are pretty expert at making french fries, so as expected
the "chips" part of the dish was quite good.
Even though salmon is my favorite fish, I am even more reluctant to try it outside of the
Pacific Northwest than the fish and chips. It would have been a mistake, though, to pass up the
Cedar Plank Salmon at Lakeside Fish Grill. I try to be objective in writing these reviews, and my
objective judgment is that shrimp has always been the best dish at this restaurant. Subjectively,
though, I am such a big fan of salmon (when it is done right) that this turned out to be a standout dish
at Lakeside Grill.
I was a little less impressed with at at Hefner Grill, though, because the fish did not taste as
fresh and was too much on the "white" side (as oppsed to the pink or red colors found with most
Pacific Northwest salmon). The maple glazed sauce may also be different from the one
described at Lakeside Fish Grill as soy sesame seed glaze with wasabi. In any case I still liked
it, but not as much as before.
Many of the side dishes seemed to be the weakest link at Pearl's, but less so at Lakeside
and Hefner Grill. The Cole Slaw at Hefner Grill, for instance, was one of the best I have tried
in Oklahoma City.
The outstanding feature of Hefner Grill is not so much that it has the best seafood in Oklahoma City,
but that almost everyone seems to like it and to come away happy with the meal. Most things are
fried, but the cooking methods seem to be a little bit healthier than most places that serve fried food.
There is enough variety that you can stay away from fried seafood if you want, and several non-fish
items have been added to make it more of a fine dining restaurant (and not just a place for
seafood).
I will have to say that I thought Lakeside Fish Grill was the best of the restaurants that have
been in this location, and Hefner Grill has made several changes that do not seem to be for the
better. I still enjoy Hefner Grill, but I am inclined to stick with some of the things they do best, such
as fried shrimp or fish and chips.
View of Hefner Grill's outdoor patio
House salad
Southwestern bean soup
Tuna sandwich
Pecan crusted trout with squash rockefeller
Dinner portion of fried shrimp
Haddock fish and chips
Cedar plank salmon at Lakeside Grill (but still served at Hefner Grill)
Go to Index
Restaurant Web Site
RESTAURANT DETAILS
RATING: 21
Cuisine: Seafood
Cost: $$$
Hours: Open Daily
Accessible: Yes
Smoking: No Smoking
Alcohol: Beer, Wine, Margaritas
Special Features: Lunch specials, Sunday brunch
Most Recent Visit
Oct. 10, 2010
Number of Visits: 7
Best Item
Fried Shrimp
Special Ratings
Fried Shrimp:
Cedar Plank Salmon:
Pecan Crusted Trout:
Fish and Chips:
Southwestern Bean Soup:
Crab Cakes:
Cole Slaw:
Garlic Mashed Potatoes:
Squash Rockefeller:
Salad:
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