Writer/adventurer Terry Wood hiked The Wonderland Trail, a 95-mile footpath circling Mount Rainier. He carried an Iridium telephone that uses satellites to relay telephone signals. Every weekday during his trip, which began Aug. 29 and ended Sept. 10, he called The Seattle Times to give an update on his progress. Read his reports below. Photos of Wood's adventure are available at http://www.seattletimes.com/wonderland/photos.html.

Sunday, August 29
After nearly two weeks of rain-free weather in Seattle, I awakened to drizzle and thick, low clouds. From Queen Anne Hill, the Space Needle is barely visible, let alone Mount Rainier. Ordinarily, I would choose another day to begin a 13-day hike around Mount Rainier National Park's 95-mile Wonderland Trail. This, however, is a public hike, a high-tech trek, filled with pre-arranged obligations to file daily reports of my trips's progress for a radio station (KIRO-AM) and this newspaper's website. Shushing a voice of internal anxiety, I complete a flurry of last-minute duties. I drive to the Nisqually entrance of the park and feel relieved when I find no rain falling at Longmire (elevation 2,800 feet). At 3:45 p.m., beneath cloudy skies that keep the nearby mountain obscured from view, I take my first steps.

Monday, August 30
Yesterday's distance covered: 3.5 miles.
Last night's campsite: Paradise River trail camp (I'm the lone camper here).
Yesterday's weather: Cloudy, but mild.
Today's wake-up weather: Light rain, thick clouds, 42 degrees.
Happenings: the dry, firm trail I followed to this spot yesterday (while passing about 30 dayhikers) is now filled with small puddles and rivulets of water. Comfortably overcast conditions have been replaced by prolonged periods of dank drizzle.
Nice view along the way: partially tree-obscured Carter Falls.
Thoughts: the calendar says late August; the sweatshirt-gray clouds say mid-November.
Last night's meal: a bagel and some beef jerky (about 50 cents worth).
Looking ahead: Am I going to be walking through twelve more days of this?
Distance still to travel: 91.5 miles.

Tuesday, August 31
Yesterday's distance covered: 2.5 miles.
Last night's campsite: National Park Inn at Longmire.
Yesterday's weather: Morning drizzle, periods of afternoon rain with lightning, partial evening clearing with patches of blue sky and a brief appearance by the mountain.
Today's wake-up weather: Light drizzle, thick clouds and steamy fog in the trees, with a small window of blue sky to the east; 43 degrees.
Happenings: Trudging through the fog up to Reflection Lake (4,850 feet), I crossed the park's paved road and questioned my commitment and my logic. My ambition is to see and feel the Wonderland Trail, said to be one of North America's greatest hikes. Not just do it. I watch steam rise off Reflection Lake as raindrops puncture its surface. I stand, ponder and soon stick out my thumb. Within 15 minutes, a kind-hearted contractor from Spokane offers me a ride, allowing me to toss my dripping pack and soggy body into his Mustang. He takes me back to Longmire, where I plan to sit out the rain and try to dry my gear. I spot another heavily burdened hiker and compare trail notes. In time, this 55-year-old retired postal worker, Tim Hillbrick of Tacoma, invites me to use the spare bed in the room he has booked at Longmire's National Park Inn. This is Tim's fourth trip around the Wonderland Trail and he promises he will walk the route at least once every year for the rest of his life. He calls the mountain "my girlfriend." He says co-workers used to call him the Grouch. Hiking the Wonderland Trail has changed that. "I don't know what the word is," Hillbrick says, "but since I've started hiking this trail, things don't bother me the way they used to. I just let things go now."
Thoughts: Traveling at trail speed is a good pace of life. It's easier to enjoy the sites and the people you meet along the way.
Nice view: Narada Falls, even in a drizzle.
Looking ahead: The weather forecast hints at better days ahead. Snow fell yesterday at Paradise (just above 5,000 feet), and one ranger heard reports of 25 mph winds at Sunrise, and an inch of accumulation. Panhandle Gap (6,800 feet) between Indian Bar and Summerland on Mount Rainier's east side may now present a treacherous crossing. When I started this trip, no ice axe was required. I should be there Tuesday.
Last night's meal: Chicken parmesan with fettuccine ($14). I passed on the $4.50 blackberry pie.
Distance still to travel (if I catch a ride back to Reflection Lake): 88 miles.

Wednesday, Sept. 1
Yesterday's distance covered: Nine miles.
Last night's campsite: Echo Creek Trail Camp (elevation 3,500 feet).
Yesterday's weather: Mist and drizzle in the morning, and dry by mid-afternoon with random blue sky sightings.
Today's weather: Clear skies with a waxing half moon overhead at 6 a.m. Temperature was 31 degrees.
Happenings: Tim hits the trail early: I wait out the morning's moisture by talking trail with rangers. One of them spent Monday, with this lousy weather, running the park's 35-mile northern loop trail. The Wonderland Trail even has its own speed record. A guy from Colorado holds the published record of 27 hours and 56 minutes, set in 1991, but rangers say that mark has since been broken. I catch a ride to Reflection Lake from Longmire at 2 p.m. Within a five minute span late in the afternoon, I sent a lens cap and filter rolling into a raging stream, then had my pack's right shoulder strap break. I said goodbye to one and fixed the other. The trail in Stevens Canyon is brushy. Berries are minimal.
Nice view: The 115-foot Gorge Box Canyon: The falls at Cowlitz River.
Thoughts: I wish I had my camera filter back: Is this shoulder strap going to hold?
Looking ahead: How bad is that new snow at Panhandle Gap?
Last night's dinner: Richmoor's beef enchilada ($6.50): Decent, but it had been on the shelf too long.
Distance still to travel: 80 miles.

Thursday, Sept. 2
Yesterday's distance covered: 7 miles.
Last night's campsite: "The Wonderland Hilton" at Indian Bar (7,100 feet) on the mountain's eastside.
Yesterday's weather: Sunny in the morning, mostly cloudy by afternoon.
Today's wake-up weather: Clear skies; 32 degrees.
Happenings: Yesterday was a day of slow, long climbs and great scenery along the Cowlitz Divide. Most people hike the Wonderland Trail clockwise. But I'm traveling counter-clockwise, primarily because it was easier reserving my preferred campsites traveling in this direction. This allows me to travel north on this up-and-down eastside route and keep the mountain in front of me. Lots of snow up here. I met Tim along the route, and we walked and skidded through about a mile of snow-covered trail before reaching the stone-and-timber trail shelter, dubbed "The Wonderland Hilton" at Indian Bar. It features eight bunk-style "cots" made up of wooden planks. For a Wonderland hiker, it's the Ritz. Good star-gazing last night.
Nice view: All along Upper Cowlitz Divide; the mountain is on one side, long-range views of the Tatoosh Range, Goat Rocks and Mount Adams are on the other.
Thoughts: I'm grateful to be here on a sunny day. Not everyone is so lucky.
Looking ahead: Panhandle Gap awaits.
Last night's dinner: Vegetable Risotto, with turkey by Backpacker's Pantry ($7). Very good: I'll buy this one again.
Distance still to travel: 73 miles.

Friday, Sept. 3
Yesterday's distance covered: 13 miles.
Last night's campsite: White River Campground (elevation 4,300 feet).
Yesterday's weather: Clear early, partly cloudy in the afternoon, but nice.
Today's wake up weather: Clear skies, 36 degrees.
Happenings: The mountain turned lavender at sun up. It was another reminder of the special qualities of Mount Rainier's Sunrise area, my personal favorite. Crossing Panhandle Gap (elevation 6,800 feet) was easier than expected. Having good weather helped. Tim and I marched through a lot of snow on both sides of the Gap, but it never felt dangerous. The mountain put on a great visual display all the way down to Summerland. Tim, making his fourth Wonderland trip in the last four years, says he's never seen so much snow on the eastern slopes. After sharing the trail for three days, Tim and I finally part company, a sad moment for both of us. I had to get down to White River to meet friends delivering supplies. Tim will end his trip later today at Sunrise. Tim had shared one of his trekking poles while we sashayed through the snow the last two days. I shared a terrific freeze-dried apple cobbler from Backpackers Pantry with him Wednesday night. As we split we both say how much we enjoyed each other's company. "I like doing the trip, but I liked making a friend even more," Tim said, a really nice thing to say. We were on the verge of hugging each other, but we both smelled too bad.
Nice views: Everything between Indian Bar and Lunarscape that precedes Summerland. The meadow at Summerland was liberally decorated with tiny yellow flowers yesterday.
Thoughts: I could use a new hiking partner. I wonder if Joey Galloway would come out and walk a few days with me. I hear he's not doing anything.
Looking ahead: Lousy weather may be moving in. I might accelerate my itinerary.
Last night's dinner: A 12-inch turkey sub from Subway (about $6). Imported from the civilized world by Jessica Thaler, new pal and high priestess of this Web site you are reading. It was great. Thanks for all supplies, Jessica.
Distance still to travel: 60 miles.

Saturday, Sept. 4

Yesterday's distance covered: 9 miles (plus 3.5 miles of stupidity walking to retrieve my forgotten water bottle).
Last night's campsite: Granite Creek trail camp (5732 feet).
Yesterday's weather: Clear skies in morning, partly sunny in afternoon; the best weather so far.
Today's wake-up weather: Overcast, 35 degrees.
Happenings: Having just resupplied, my already bulging pack is now stocked with eight days worth of food, probably pushing its weight, originally 62 pounds, close to 65. Yikes! Faced with a 1,000-foot climb to Sunrise in just three miles, I turn resourceful. A couple at a nearby campsite visiting from Holland is driving up to Sunrise from White River. After some polite begging from me, they cheerfully agree to become my Chevy-powered sherpas to transport my pack to higher ground. Purists may wag a finger at me for such a tactic, but as my trail buddy Tim said when we swapped tales of energy-saving strategies, "That's not cheating. That's just being smart." Pack-free, I passed three other Wonderland Trail hikers on the way up and confess my strategy to them. All are impressed. "As long as you're walking the trail, that sounds like a good idea to me," a fellow from Mexico tells me. Two Seattle women, Julie and Cara, also gave my tactic a thumbs-up. While I recharge my phone's batteries at the Sunrise ranger station, volunteer ranger Eva Neassica shows me photos of the past winter's snowfall at Sunrise. In one, except for a small portion of the roof, Sunrise's two-story visitor center is buried by snow. Eva skied off the roof one day last winter. Monday's surprise snowfall blanketed the surrounding meadows with two inches of powder, she said.
Heading west, the terrain becomes more raw and rugged. Burroughs Mountain, a jumbled mass of gray rocks, dominates the view to the east as I plowed west toward Skyscraper Pass (6900 feet). Once there, I pause, take photos and focus so much on the views that I forget to put my water bottle back in my pack. After reaching Granite Creek, I realize my blunder and hike almost two miles (and up 500 feet) to track it down. What a meathead. A trio of hikers I had met at the pass were going to carry it down to me, but I felt better knowing that I had it back in hand, albeit I'll need it in the week to come.
Nice view: About a mile below Sunrise on the trail that leads to White River are a few spectacular, and crowd-free, spots to gaze at the mountain when it is bathed in morning light.
Thoughts: Love that sunshine!
Looking ahead: Rain may be returning Sunday.
Last night's dinner: Cheese enchilada ranchero by Richmoor ($6.50). Pretty good, but Mexican food is a tough item to translate into satisfying freeze-dried fare.
Distance still to travel: 51 miles.

Sunday, Sept. 5
Yesterday's distance covered: 11 miles.
Last night's campsite: Ipsut Creek campground (2,350 feet).
Yesterday's weather: Overcast in the morning, partly sunny by afternoon.
Today's wake-up weather: Mostly cloudy, 46 degrees.
Happenings: Climbing to Mystic Lake yesterday, I met one of the park's few remaining backcountry rangers, 35-year-old JoAnne Germano. This is her 13th summer at Rainier, her fifth as the person who staffs the small, two-bunk cabin north of Mystic Lake. Roger Healey, 32, is a volunteer who also is putting in a lot of time at Mystic this summer. A native New Yorker with a degree in environmental studies, Germano loves to teach, and this fall she begins her first full-time teaching position as a special education instructor at Alternative School No. 1 in the Pinehurst-Northgate area. She'll be at Mystic Lake on weekends through mid-October. "Up here," she said, "I like to teach people how to enjoy the area while leaving it as unimpacted as possible. The public has gotten much better at staying on trails and not trampling the vegetation, which is so fragile up here. I still worry about the area, though. I treat it like a mother hen." Germano, who can walk 10 to 15 miles in a routine day, three years ago unknowingly stepped into a mass of glacial till at the base of Winthrop Glacier. This till is a strange concoction that behaves like quicksand, and Germano sank in up to her chest. "I'm a major swimmer, and somehow I reached a tree that was behind me. I got out after several minutes, but I was in shock. Quicksand is not some Hollywood myth."
I had no trouble crossing Winthop Glacier on a skinny footbridge above the churning waters spilling from it. Though I had plans to spend the night at Mystic Lake, forecasts of rain for Sunday motivated me to push on into lovely Moraine Park, enjoying views of the Mountain, half-hidden by swirling white clouds. I even bumped into a day hiker who said he's been following my daily reports on the Web. I marvel at the purplish tint of the Carbon Glacier, the lowest glacier (in elevation) found in the continental United States. Later, the walk along the Carbon River passes through a dense, old-growth forest filled with Western Hemlock, Douglas Fir, red cedar and the farthest-inland Sitka spruce in the U.S.
Nice view: The vertical spectacle of north-facing 3,600 foot Willis Wall, as seen from the porch of the Mystic Lake ranger station. It is recognized as the toughest climbing route (out of at least 47) on Mount Rainier.
Last night's dinner: Turkey tetrazzini by Mountain House ($6.25). Quite good.
Distance still to travel: 40 miles.

Monday, Sept. 6
Yesterday's distance traveled: 5 miles (plus two mile side trip to Eunice Lake).
Last night's campsite: Mowich Lake walk-in campground (4,950 feet).
Yesterday's weather: Mostly cloudy in morning with some occasional drizzle; rain arrives in the afternoon.
Today's wake-up weather: Heavy fog, 39 degrees.
Happenings: While trudging up, up, up the 2,850 feet climb to Ipsut Pass (5,200 feet), I encounter the Three Ladies. This is a trio my buddy Tim had met earlier in his trip. Kristine Novltine, 47 and Andrea Moawad, 55, both from Lakewood, are circling the Mountain with Linda Evanson of Steilacoom in anticipation of Linda's 60th birthday Sept. 14. "We always do something sick on our birthdays," Evanson said. "We used to run a minute for each year. Then we started to get so old that we began running in half-time." Added Moawad, who like Evanson has once summited Rainier: "We've always felt obligated to do something unusual, but I think this is ridiculous!" Novltine, who has trouble convincing her husband to undertake backpacking trips, proposed doing the Wonderland loop to her friends. "I just lied and told them how much fun it was," she said. Their husbands met them at Mowich Lake the night before, bringing a grill, steaks and fresh melon with them. Though the trip is not quite what guidebooks suggested it could be, ("Where are the flowers?" Moawad asked. "For that matter, where is the sun?"), it's obvious the trio is enjoying the journey. "I started this trip with 44 pounds on my back and a lot of whining," Evanson said. "But it's really been wonderful."
I can't say the same for my stiff, uphill lug to Ipsut Pass, even though I pass the world's oldest living yellow cedar tree on my way. I gasped to the pass, then take a side trip to frosty, windy Eunice Lake before descending to Mowich Lake. Day hiker Tim from Maple Valley offered me some carrots, two fruit cups and a beer. His wife Teri offered me a can of V-8. I hastily threw together my test in a drizzle and bunkered down for a night of rain.
Thoughts: Where IS that sunshine?
Looking ahead: A side trip to Spray Park planned for today may have to wait until another visit.
Last night's dinner: A "self-heating" meal of chicken parmesan from Alpine Aire foods ($6.95). It sounded like a gimmick, but one that might be handy on a rainy day when futzing with a stove might be a hassle. It worked as advertised, though at 12 ounces, it's heavy to carry. And the food, while good, is modest in quantity (for a backpacker's ravenous state of mind).
Distance still to travel: 35 miles

Tuesday, Sept. 7
Yesterday's distance covered: 0 miles.
Last night's campsite: Mowich Lake Walk-In-Campground (elevation 4,950 feet).
Yesterday's weather: Fog and clouds all day: Temperatures in the high 40s and low 50s.
Today's wake up weather: Clear and frosty: 27 degrees.
Happenings: Yesterday I had planned to make a side trip into lovely Spray Park as a day hike. The low fog clinging to the tree tops, however, persuaded me to just sit the day out. After eight straight days of full-pack hiking, it felt good to take it easy. People wonder why the Wonderland Trail is not officially routed through Spray Park and Cataract Valley, a more scenic path than the trail that travels to Mowich Lake and over Ipsut Pass. Backcountry ranger JoAnne Germano believes the Wonderland Trail originally followed the Spray-Cataract route (since the trail's mandate is to stay as close as possible to the mountain). But years ago it was changed to the Mowich-Ipsut route because that trail melts out earlier each season. Both routes measure 8.5 miles, but Spray-Cataract involves greater elevation gain, about 800 feet. A couple of Labor Day visitors to this trailhead generously tossed some spare food to this hungry hiker. Thanks to Dan of Auburn for the fruit and to Ava of Edmonds and her friends for the gobs of vegetables. This morning my buddy Tahoma Jon Corriveau, who operates Tahoma Glacier Water Company, dropped off some goodies before he and two pals took off on a 16-mile day hike, going through Spray Park then looping back over Ipsut Pass. Jon once did the Wonderland Trail in four days! My biggest gamble on this trip - starting a 13-day hike with new boots - has paid off. My old boots hurt my toes so I felt the new boot risk was worth it for this trip. I didn't settle on size 13 Zamberlan Civettas until the day before my trip started. Not a smart move. But they have performed beautifully: Not one blister, not even a hot spot. Many thanks for the expertise and guidance provided by footwear aces Adam and Tim at the downtown REI.
Looking ahead: Dry weather may last through my exit day, Friday. Great news! I have two of the trips toughest climbs: both over 2,000 feet still ahead. Time to psyche up for the big grunt.
Last night's dinner: Spicy chicken fajitas by Richmoor: $6.75. (Pretty good though it was a touch too sweet). Distance still to travel: 35 miles.

Wednesday, Sept. 8
Yesterday's distance traveled: 10 miles.
Last night's campsite: Golden Lakes Trail Camp (elevation 5,000 feet).
Yesterday's weather: Perfect (warm, sunny, cloudless). One of those great-to-be-alive days.
Today's wake up conditions: Clear and promising (39 degrees).
Happenings: Yesterday was a typical day on the Wonderland Trail. Last night I camped at an elevation only 70 feet higher than where I spent the previous night. But to get there, I had to descend more than 2,300 feet to the Mowich River, then climb 2,400 feet. Level trail sections are rare on this walk across Mount Rainier's many ridge lines.
Almost the entire distance I traveled yesterday was beneath a thick canopy of old growth trees. The trees are gorgeous, but only once all day did I reach a spot where I could enjoy a clear, breakout view of the mountain. That occurred on a ridge line just north of Golden Lakes, where blueberry bushes along the trail were operating at peak production. My fingers acquired a blue stain due to my frequent berry picking.
I passed several groups and soloists heading north yesterday, some locals and a duo from Portland and Clinton, and a 56-year-old fellow from Washington, D.C. He is three states shy of covering the entire Appalachian Trail and he told me he wanted to take on the Wonderland Trail and "experience a real mountain."
The mountain was lovely in yesterday's twilight, shifting from gold to pink to icy blue-gray as the sun faded. A nice end to a nice day.
Trail conditions: Two weeks ago I was told the area I traveled through yesterday was littered with dead fall (fallen trees). However, it was completely cleared as I passed through, with gaps cut through massive logs in order to keep the trail open. In addition, every water crossing has had a foot bridge in place. Even where bridges have been damaged, a temporary crossing has been installed. I have yet to ford a creek. Other than sporadic dead fall on Cowlitz Divide and some thick brush in Stevens Canyon and elsewhere, the trail is in great shape. Considering the harshness of this past winter, that's some accomplishment.
Last night's dinner: A Sierra chicken (chicken in tomato sauce with pasta) by Alpine Aire ($6.75). Nothing fancy but an always tasty favorite.
Distance still to travel: 25 miles.

Thursday, Sept. 9
Yesterday's distance traveled: 8 miles.
Last night's campsite: Klapatche Park (elevation 5,400 feet).
Yesterday's weather: Ideal (clear and toasty). As summertime goes, it's too little, too late, but I'm grateful for it.
Today's wake up conditions: Clear and balmy (51 degrees).
Happenings: Talk about being in the right place at the right time. When the weather turns warm and the clouds go away, there's no finer place to be than on the ridgelines of Mount Rainier. The past two days have provided a microcosm of the summer we all hoped to enjoy this year. I'm glad I was here to see it, feel it, breathe it.
After descending five miles from Golden Lakes to the North Puyallup River, the three-mile (1,800 feet) lug up to Klapatche Park was as tough as anticipated. At times the constant switchbacks made me feel as though I was ascending the tight spiral stairs of a lighthouse. But the payoff came as I reached Aurora Lake and, looking left, was stunned to see Rainier's hulking white mass suddenly dominating the horizon. Awesome. I day-hiked to neighboring St. Andrews Park, then took in a fine sunset at Klapatche. What could be better?
Klapatche, though, was my first stop on this trip where I broke out the insect repellent and bug-net hat. The mosquitoes were heavy around Aurora.
A helicopter swooped in at 8:20 this morning and landed on the banks of Aurora Lake. Someone in a jumpsuit hopped out. Was I being evacuated? Was the park superintendent dropping in to correct something I'd written? Was it an extra-special delivery by HomeGrocer.com? Nope. It was a team of rangers preparing to airlift a barrel of human waste from this trail camp's outhouse. "Too exciting," said flown-in trail crew member Kendra Mills.
Nice views: The imposing formations rising above the North Puyallup where the Wonderland Trail crosses it (sunset at Klapatche Park).
Last night's dinner: Barbecue chicken with rice from Richmoor ($6.50). A nice taste option, but the sauce could have used a little more zing.
Distance still to travel: 17 miles.

Friday, Sept 10
Yesterdays distance traveled: 10 miles (plus side trip to Mirror Lakes).
Last night's campsite: Pyramid Peak cross-country zone (5,500 feet).
Yesterday's weather: sunny until late afternoon; mostly cloudy and cool thereafter.
Today's wake-up conditions: cloudy, then sunny; 34 degrees.
Happenings: The end is near. What a pity. With the arrival of such nice weather, I'm already sizing up some Rainier day hikes to pursue as soon this long-haul trek is finished. If it were raining, of course, I'd be sprinting to Longmire. Now I kind of wish I had a few extra miles to walk. Yesterday's up-and-down 10-miler had its brutal elements. After a 400-foot climb out of Klapatche Park, I dropped 1,900 feet through the South Puyallup River. I then climbed 1,600 feet and a little more than 2 miles to spectacular Emerald Ridge. I followed that with a 1,400-foot drop to Tahoma Creek, then a 1,200-foot climb to Indian Henry's Hunting Ground. After all that, my net elevation change from the previous night's campsite was just 100 feet. Clearly, this trail is the toughest sequence of climbs is on the mountain's west side.
Worth noting: I found some of the trail's worst sections here. Some washouts and some badly overgrown areas could leave some hikers vulnerable to twisted ankles. This area need attention. As my trip is winding down, many others are just getting started. Yesterday I passed Doug and Marie Beyerlein of Seattle on the second day of their 15-day trek. A middle-aged fellow from Indiana explained to me how he was including the northern loop into his journey to create a 128-mile route. Two childhood chums from Kirkland, Nick and Scott, were making their ninth and eighth trips on the trail, respectively. They have photos of themselves standing at Panhandle Gap at age 12, then at age 21. After this trip, they will have one of them standing there at age 36. A young couple from Austria on a year-long tour of the U.S. decided to try it on a whim. "We saw this was the highest mountain here, and this was the longest trail, so why not?" the young fellow said. Then there's 54-year-old Howard Sutherland of Kennewick, struggling under the burden of a 50-pound pack. He's doing a solo trip because he and his son used to backpack together, he's always known about the trail and "I'm not getting any younger, you know?" Keep those feet moving, Howard. Good luck. Now, when are you going to start YOUR trip?
Nice Views: The meadows at Indian Henry's; Mount Rainier reflected in Mirror Lake; Emerald Ridge--all masterpieces of nature.
Last night's dinner: Santa Fe-style rice with chicken by Backpacker's Pantry ($8). Very tasty and satisfying, but 8 bucks?
Distance still to travel: 7 miles.

Friday, Sept. 10
The finish line: 3:27 p.m.
Today's distance traveled: 7 miles.
Overview of trail conditions: Very good, considering the 1,000-inch snowfall (650 inches is normal) that buried Rainier last winter. Obstacles: Some washouts and thickly overgrown sections north and south of the south Puyallup River (westside); about a half-dozen fallen trees on the Cowlitz Divide (eastside); one washout east of Mystic Lake, forcing hikers to scramble across an awkward detour (northside); maybe a mile of cumulative snowfields on either side of Panhandle Gap though the Gap is snow-free (eastside).
Favorite trail camps : Indian Bar, Klapatche Park.
Best view from a pit toilet: Indian Bar.
Fact future Wonderland Trail hikers should keep in mind: Be prepared for constant up-and-down travel; cumulative elevation gain exceeds 20,000 feet; steep and swift elevation gains can be weary and demoralizing to some.
Strongest post-hike desire: A shower. I reek!
Favorite freeze-dried meal of the trip: Vegetable risotto with turkey from Backpackers Pantry.
Plans for rest of afternoon: Day hike Pinnacle Peak (3.2 miles round trip). It's too nice of a day to stop now.
Distance still to travel: 95 miles (next year).